tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-16924554267050921612024-02-07T12:25:55.714-06:00Scene in the PastScene in the Pasthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00152966266473265321noreply@blogger.comBlogger41125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1692455426705092161.post-47578026027573970562014-02-28T18:48:00.003-06:002014-02-28T18:48:34.281-06:00I live! (And the Nankeen boot is now available!)Just way too busy to post much, alas. I have big plans for this year, including a number of late 1700s items, my first foray into the 1910s, and a beaded 1920s<i> robe de style.</i> Currently I'm hand-sewing some 1780s stays. They're white/off white wool on the outside, stitched in blue. Very pretty! And very much needed before I can continue with the rest of my plans.<br />
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Right now, though, I'm eying the new American Duchess boots, the "Nankeen." These are cloth boots, very commonly worn from 1800-1820. I've been longing for cloth boots so I can be just like the heroines of Georgette Heyer's books - they're all well-equipped with "jean" boots!<br />
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<a href="http://www.american-duchess.com/shoes-18th-century/nankeen-fabric-regency-boots"><img alt="http://www.american-duchess.com/shoes-18th-century/nankeen-fabric-regency-boots" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNOi8Wp2AVjWoF34lh4cF2I-rvyR_LF1Q58nhFYbulbRE4oVPefLndo1FSE9dWi13ymntRjTxP0AVkJXI2J6btDwGQl6_fTNuWe41J9ckHaffDDth4JBEDlnvp9A2GlpjK6ZDgwlnzYPhi/s1600/nankeen-regency-boots-1.jpg" height="339" width="640" /></a> </div>
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I particularly like the slimmer ankle on these, compared even to the Hartfield, the American Duchess leather Regency boots.</div>
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<a href="http://americanduchess.blogspot.com/2014/02/introducing-and-celebrating-nankeen.html"><img alt="http://americanduchess.blogspot.com/2014/02/introducing-and-celebrating-nankeen.html" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJKQdPP00eTzEgahANaUOH7kmNobmVZitrWpCadqXc2sHQ1iJrmXvdZTG4x_RThNPBPYMD-abrqQ3O4BcfyOXLIAC5a6kUz5zK1voOqmZuek2PfVhrLakJ90Zh02acMSg6NOj8LuB80vkj/s1600/Nankeen-Hartfield-comparison.jpg" height="316" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />A famous pair of surviving original boots is trimmed with ribbon on the seams, and cute little bows. </div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://fe01.museumoflondon.org.uk/imagestore/231/media-231870/original.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://fe01.museumoflondon.org.uk/imagestore/231/media-231870/original.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Source: <a href="http://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/Online/object.aspx?objectID=object-716121&start=2&rows=1">Museum of London.</a> Dated 1815.</td></tr>
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<br />Nankeen is a yellowish/tan cotton material from China, from which these common type of boots were made. I'm very excited to see this addition to reproduction footwear.</div>
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Scene in the Pasthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00152966266473265321noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1692455426705092161.post-47894923001985484922013-04-22T17:39:00.001-05:002013-04-22T17:39:06.100-05:00Historical Sew Fortnightly #8: By the Sea: 1860s Hat Veil of Spotted Net<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://thedreamstress.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/HSFsm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://thedreamstress.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/HSFsm.jpg" /></a></div>
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The By the Sea challenge was indeed a challenge for me. I have no immediate use for any period swimwear, alas, and those projects aren't quick ones, either. Additionally, I'm over 300 miles from the nearest sea; and there are no natural lakes in my entire state! (Plenty of reservoirs for water, but nothing natural. Well, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caddo_lake">except for one</a>, <i>and</i> it's on the border with Louisiana.) In addition, the next challenge, Flora and Fauna, I planned a more ambitious project. So like the collar for Accessorize, this challenge entrant is also relatively simple: a makeover of an 1860s hat veil.<br />
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Several years ago, I ordered a yard of English cotton bobbinette (fine hexagonal mesh) to
make a couple of veils for my mother and I. In Texas the sun's glare is
unrelenting, and lasts about 8 months of the year, so it was a good
opportunity for my first try at a veil. I ordered one yard, and cut
into half-yard lengths for two veils: 17" deep and about 40" wide.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8670956062/" title="DSC06889 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06889" height="640" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8526/8670956062_e09f9a56fe_z.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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The
theory worked very well: Sun shade! Less squinting! But the length tended to grab onto the shoulders of
my dress. I finished my mother's with ribbon, which both looked pretty and weighted down the hem. So when pondering suitable accessories for a By the Sea challenge, I decided to remake my veil. That meant doing some more serious research on them.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8132765263/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="DSC05662 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC05662" height="400" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8467/8132765263_d561d85599_z.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is what happens when you bundle up a too-long veil to get it out of the way. Bad veil day!</td></tr>
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<i><b>Research</b></i><br />
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Mid-Victorian veils are hard to research; they are one of those things that everyone knew how and when to use, so they are rarely discussed in fashion magazines or shown in fashion plates. However, I know they were typical for use when riding or traveling, to protect the face from sun, wind, dust and cinders, as well as for privacy or anonymity. In many ways, they were to the mid-Victorians what sunglasses are to us today. In color, black and white were the most common, with occasional mentions of blue, green, and brown. Looking through a dark-colored mesh is very similar to using sunglasses.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.lapl.org/sites/default/files/visual-collections/casey-fashion-plates/rbc5188.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://www.lapl.org/sites/default/files/visual-collections/casey-fashion-plates/rbc5188.jpg" width="311" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.lapl.org/sites/default/files/visual-collections/casey-fashion-plates/rbc5188.jpg">June 1864</a></td></tr>
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Another use for veils was for seaside wear, which is why I chose a veil for the By the Sea challenge. A good number of summertime fashion plates in the 1850s and after show figures by the sea or lake, in brightly-colored and white ultra-fashionable outfits. These are the "resort" fashions of 150 years ago. Like sunglasses, a veil is ideal for these situations, which are are usually bright and breezy.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.lapl.org/sites/default/files/visual-collections/casey-fashion-plates/rbc5319.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://www.lapl.org/sites/default/files/visual-collections/casey-fashion-plates/rbc5319.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537346362309/">August, 1865</a></td></tr>
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In museums, I mostly found bonnet veils. Veils from the 1830s and 1840s are long and nearly square, and often made with big lace patterns. 50s and 60s bonnet veils are smaller, usually wide half-ovals, or occasionally <a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537346363249/">distorted diamond shapes</a>; the straight edge is pinned around the bonnet brim, so the curved edge falls more or less evenly. These veils are machine-made of net, embroidered with wide lace patterns, borders, and "spots" and/or sprigs. Rectangular veils continued to be worn on bonnets as well, but the round shape was very popular and tended to survive. It's hard to re-purpose something like this: <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://media-cache-is0.pinimg.com/736x/c7/f8/bc/c7f8bcbe1beec06a644ae8379cf8754f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="171" src="http://media-cache-is0.pinimg.com/736x/c7/f8/bc/c7f8bcbe1beec06a644ae8379cf8754f.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537346363341/">source</a></td></tr>
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Hats, defined as headwear with a brim all around, first re-appeared in fashion magazines in the 1840s, but remained very much a fringe headwear style until the mid-1860s. Throughout the 1850s they tended to have large brims and be worn only in the "garden," or perhaps by the seaside. Although still vastly outnumbered by bonnets, hats with smaller brims appear more commonly in photographs by the early 1860s. They show up in fashion plates in all seasons and settings. A handful of written fashion notes talk about both gauze and lace veils.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.lapl.org/sites/default/files/visual-collections/casey-fashion-plates/rbc5033.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://www.lapl.org/sites/default/files/visual-collections/casey-fashion-plates/rbc5033.jpg" width="297" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537346362856/"> August, 1862 </a></td></tr>
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But I needed specific information on hat veils, not veils in general. What does a hat veil look like? Is it different from a bonnet veil? Here are most of the examples I've found online in the last month or so.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://media-cache-ec4.pinimg.com/736x/85/13/62/851362525f131852eda0333b581e211e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://media-cache-ec4.pinimg.com/736x/85/13/62/851362525f131852eda0333b581e211e.jpg" width="302" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537346166158/">source</a></td></tr>
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<b>Real Women</b><br />
* <a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537346166268/">Large veil draped on hat</a>; visible only because of wide two-color border. This may be a very big round or half-circle veil pinned only to the front of the hat.<br />
* <a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537346166264/">Sheer veil, turned back over the hat</a>. Looks to be unpatterned, with no visible lace or border, but the definition isn't good. It's not very long.<br />
* <a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537346166158/">Long sheer veil with woven ribbon borders.</a> Looks rectangular, of a crisp fabric, gathered to the front of the hat and laid over the trim.<br />
* <a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537346166123/">Sheer, light-colored, all around the hat.</a> May be either white or blue, because blue photographs light or white with period techniques. Appears to be about chin length; no pattern visible, but the quality of the scan is very low.<br />
* <a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537346166083/">Lace/net veil, at least halfway around the hat.</a> About chin length, and attached at the base of the crown.<br />
* <a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537346166136/">Actual wartime photo, taken in camp.</a> Looks dark, soft, and plain. The length is obscured, but it's hanging as if it does have some length; probably more than chin-length.<br />
* <a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537346272910/">All-over lace veil, shorter than the chin, all around the hat. </a>Fixed to the hat over the front trim. Source from Germany.<br />
* <a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537345685067/">Lower right-hand corner: Long, sheer, with wide ribbon/woven border.</a> <br />
* <a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537346363406/">Long spotted veil with lace border.</a> Probably worn over the front decoration.<br />
* <a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537346363550/">Long sheer veil, light-colored, with deep hem.</a> Sheer, unpatterned, slightly shiny material.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/5d/44/3f/5d443f0061744b0d6918534d71c039f8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/5d/44/3f/5d443f0061744b0d6918534d71c039f8.jpg" width="298" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537346272910/">source</a></td></tr>
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Fashion Plates<br />
* <a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537346362372/">1859, April.</a> For riding. Green, plain woven, long.<br />
* <a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537346362860/">1862, August.</a> Black lace, just short of the chin; all around. <br />
* <a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537346361857/">1863, January. </a> Long and white; plain woven. <br />
* <a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537346359081/">1863, July.</a> Black lace, about nose length. All around.<br />
* <a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537346362744/">1863, September.</a> For riding. Brown, plain woven, long.<br />
* <a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537346358701/">1863, October.</a> For traveling. Chin length, spotted veil with edging, semi-circle attached to front half of brim, possibly gathered at outside edge.<br />
* <a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537346359062/">1864, June.</a> Chin length, spotted veil with edging (lace or beads), all around.<br />
* <a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537346358765/">1864, June.</a> Long and rectangular, spotted with gold edging. Only in front.<br />
* <a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537346361867/">1864, September.</a> Black spotted net with what looks like beaded fringe. Short and shaped; front and sides only. <br />
* <a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537346362302/">1865, July.</a> Long and white; spotted.<br />
* <a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537346362309/">1865, August.</a> For the seaside. Long and white, plain woven.<br />
* <a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537346358812/">1865, August.</a> Long and white; plain woven. Attached at the front.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://media-cache-ak1.pinimg.com/736x/e0/97/e9/e097e97cc1407570d855920512779b80.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://media-cache-ak1.pinimg.com/736x/e0/97/e9/e097e97cc1407570d855920512779b80.jpg" width="325" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537346361857/">source</a></td></tr>
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<a data-pin-do="embedPin" href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537346166083"></a>
A borderline "veil" that appeared in the 1850s (I didn't go further back than 1857) is a fringe of lace, usually black, running all around the brim of the hat. It is usually about 2" long, and I would consider it more a hat trim instead of a separate veil. It does not look easily removable as with regular veils. Most of the plates showing it are from the mid/late 1850s, but I still have two from 1862 and one from 1864. Nonetheless, I haven't found any actual photographs showing this type of veil or trim.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://media-cache-lt0.pinterest.com/736x/3c/1d/80/3c1d80710345253061b326d4bd8c0050.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://media-cache-lt0.pinterest.com/736x/3c/1d/80/3c1d80710345253061b326d4bd8c0050.jpg" width="310" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537346359068/">source</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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This isn't a large sample for research, so I'm leery of drawing any hard conclusions. Still, these <i>seem</i> to be the general types of hat veils:<br />
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* Specialty: Riding (long and sheer, probably plain woven) or traveling (only one picture, but otherwise widely recommended in text, without much elaboration).<br />
* All-over lace: Short to medium length, no longer than the chin.<br />
* Spotted and/or edged: Medium length to long. Probably from the same net that lace is worked on.<br />
* Plain: Long and square. Plain short hem, a deep hem, or with woven/applied ribbons at hem. Probably the ones called "gauze" in fashion magazines.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/64/b0/db/64b0dbc1d2a264dc9d910e61ecacc6a8.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="249" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Original bonnet veil, collection of Pam Robles. <a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537346166164">Source</a></td></tr>
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Verdict: I didn't find evidence of a long, plain net veil. I found various medium-length and short net veils, and one long one, but they were all "spotted" with woven dots, sprigs, or rings, and edged with a woven-in or embroidered pattern, or with beaded or gilt fringe (from fashion magazines).<br />
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Obviously I don't have a machine for creating specially-made 1860s hat veils. :) So the next best solution was to create my own edging, or apply another one already made, and embroider my own dots. Fun!<br />
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<i><b>The Challenge: </b></i>HSF #8, By the Sea<br />
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<b><i>Fabric: </i></b>Black English cotton bobbinette from <a href="http://tutu.com/">tutu.com</a><br />
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<b><i>Pattern:</i></b><i> </i>None. I looked at museum sites and pictures, and draped on my hat.<br />
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<b><i>Year: </i></b> c. 1860-1864<br />
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<i><b>Notions: </b></i>Black alençon lace, unknown content, probably synthetic. Lightweight black thread. Narrow black silk ribbon.<br />
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<i><b>How historically accurate is it? </b></i>0% in one way of looking at it, because it's a hand-made approximation of something that was not made by hand. But overall, maybe 75%, losing major points because of the lace. It also needs a lot more spots!<br />
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<i><b>Hours to complete: </b></i>6.<br />
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<b><i>First worn: </i></b>Just for some silly pictures, and briefly on the back porch to see how it behaves in a strong breeze. (Just fine!) I hope to take some real pictures once the Flora & Fauna challenge is done, however.<br />
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<i><b>Total cost: </b></i>$7
for the lace, of which I used about $1/worth, and about $2.50 for the thread. This was a remake,
though, and originally the bobbinette cost over $30/yd; now it's $40. I
could get four veils this size out of a yard. So call it $12 for materials. If I started over, the cost for one would be close to $50. I could make 4 out of that amount, however.<br />
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<i><b>Construction</b></i><br />
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I pinned up the veil on my hat to an approximate chin length, and double-checked to make sure it didn't feel silly. Well, super silly.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8669853463/" title="DSC06890 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06890" height="480" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8385/8669853463_58d51b735d_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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The pattern of spots took a little thinking. Most originals have a fairly tight pattern, but it would take a long time to embroider that much. Since I <i>really</i> want to get the Flora and Fauna challenge done on time, I just couldn't justify spending a lot of time on the veil. So I settled for a very wide apart pattern of plain dots, in a diamond pattern about 3" apart. This pattern I can fill in at a future time, at 1.5", 1", or even .5" intervals. That would be very pretty.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8669854135/" title="DSC06892 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06892" height="480" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8531/8669854135_9ee3897dfc_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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Bobbinette is not nearly as slithery as some sheer fabrics, but it does stretch. Furthermore, it shrugs off chalk markings like nobody's business. The only way I could mark the spots was to put in pins and work directly on my cutting table.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8669855083/" title="DSC06895 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06895" height="480" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8387/8669855083_bcd28c685a_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8669854423/" title="DSC06893 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"></a><br />
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The dots weren't very visible on the grid, but they show up better with white behind them. I kept them small, because I plan to add a lot more.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8669854423/" title="DSC06893 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06893" height="480" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8528/8669854423_fb4780fd15_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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Eventually my back and neck sent urgent warnings, so I rearranged my work station. No more bending over! The dots were tedious, especially since I did have to keep within a pattern of the mesh, but they still went very fast individually. When finished, I attached the lace, overlapping the net just slightly. It was unexpectedly tricky to attach the lace, because the net stretches and the lace doesn't.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8670957632/" title="DSC06894 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06894" height="640" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8519/8670957632_db0c8c1152_z.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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I left the original sewn casing and ribbon. In the future I might tat, crochet, or net a fine row of beading to run the ribbon through, similar to original veils.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8669855377/" title="DSC06896 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06896" height="300" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8265/8669855377_20a8739ba2_n.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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In these pictures I carefully pinned the veil to the edge of the brim, but I don't think I'll bother with that when I wear it. It's surprisingly difficult to do, and doesn't seem to be as common a way to attach the veil to a hat.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8670959332/" title="DSC06903 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06903" height="480" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8519/8670959332_dc9b07cbf7_z.jpg" width="640" /></a>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8669856159/" title="DSC06902 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06902" height="320" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8258/8669856159_08fe4982b7_n.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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I like the effect when it's pulled back over the hat. A kind of graceful disorder. ;)<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8670960210/" title="DSC06906 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06906" height="480" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8396/8670960210_e5e3f5a4bd_z.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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In this one, I tried putting it on just the front/sides of the brim. In some ways it doesn't look different, and in others it looks silly. I think this method of attachment is best for one of the long veils.<br />
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Scene in the Pasthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00152966266473265321noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1692455426705092161.post-90769556470495282552013-04-15T16:41:00.000-05:002013-04-15T16:41:06.693-05:00My Turn - the Highbury Shoes!I get to promote some <a href="http://americanduchess.blogspot.com/2013/04/giveaway-win-pair-of-highbury-regency.html">American Duchess shoes</a>: the Highbury Regency flat!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYez861NAehyphenhyphenT5eyqXGHEdz_gJ7K8U-Z7GTQ8ghnFQzE2TNlbfWPJpoqEh1OnEu6r0YVVSCDfiiU3VIOLJFMudmT0iECXy81bmfFtHQWzlvXGzAZ0hqyTW_bZbZ73AH8kHT2zj56WrVeLL/s640/Highbury-FB-promoted.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYez861NAehyphenhyphenT5eyqXGHEdz_gJ7K8U-Z7GTQ8ghnFQzE2TNlbfWPJpoqEh1OnEu6r0YVVSCDfiiU3VIOLJFMudmT0iECXy81bmfFtHQWzlvXGzAZ0hqyTW_bZbZ73AH8kHT2zj56WrVeLL/s640/Highbury-FB-promoted.jpg" height="336" width="400" /></a></div>
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These are far and away my favorite American Duchess so far. That mostly because I'm not heavily into the bulk of 1770s costuming, and so far I haven't really done anything after 1865.<br />
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I like the Highbury slippers because they have the pointed toe, fairly high vamp, and low heel that's characteristic of shoes from c. 1795-1810.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://www.manchestergalleries.org/the-collections/search-the-collection/mcgweb/objects/common/webmedia.php?irn=32634&size=431x323" height="300" width="400" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.manchestergalleries.org/the-collections/search-the-collection/display.php?EMUSESSID=1c84f38c76ed7a17c3a81b5e3e15c8af&irn=14926">source</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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In addition, they have tiny little loops inside that can be used to lace a ribbon through. You can use all of the loops, as in the model picture, or use fewer loops for a different look.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://media-cache-ec4.pinterest.com/736x/5a/65/73/5a65736c5482147b5c4ab057597459fc.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://media-cache-ec4.pinterest.com/736x/5a/65/73/5a65736c5482147b5c4ab057597459fc.jpg" height="640" width="387" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Costume Parisien, c. 1798</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.europeanpaintings.com/artlogic_assets/_resampled/SetWidth600-56.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://www.europeanpaintings.com/artlogic_assets/_resampled/SetWidth600-56.jpg" height="640" width="428" /> </a></td><td style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.europeanpaintings.com/paintings/blondel-merry-joseph/portrait-of-felicite-louise-julie-constance-de-durfort-marechale-de-beurnonville/">source</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Right now, I'm dreaming about a pair dyed a nice, bright yellow.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1d/Gertrud_Hage,_nee_Heitmann,_by_Jens_Juel_-_Statens_Museum_for_Kunst_-_DSC08189.JPG/443px-Gertrud_Hage,_nee_Heitmann,_by_Jens_Juel_-_Statens_Museum_for_Kunst_-_DSC08189.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1d/Gertrud_Hage,_nee_Heitmann,_by_Jens_Juel_-_Statens_Museum_for_Kunst_-_DSC08189.JPG/443px-Gertrud_Hage,_nee_Heitmann,_by_Jens_Juel_-_Statens_Museum_for_Kunst_-_DSC08189.JPG" height="640" width="472" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Gertrud_Hage,_nee_Heitmann,_by_Jens_Juel_-_Statens_Museum_for_Kunst_-_DSC08189.JPG">source</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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I think I'd also trim them with white ribbon at the seams and around the front of the vamp, and add a strip of white leather to imitate this common look at the heel.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/54.61.40a-b_CP4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/54.61.40a-b_CP4.jpg" height="197" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/collections/search-the-collections/80094041">source</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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I can't wait!Scene in the Pasthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00152966266473265321noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1692455426705092161.post-46344191199759533762013-04-15T14:39:00.000-05:002013-04-15T14:39:14.739-05:00Historical Sew Fortnightly #7: Accessorize: 1860s Embroidered & Edged Collar<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://thedreamstress.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/HSFsm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://thedreamstress.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/HSFsm.jpg" /></a></div>
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I had big plans for this challenge. I've done 1860s reenacting for <strike>quite some</strike> a very long time, but my wardrobe is a bit scattered in completeness and accuracy. Take personal linens. I have a couple of chemisettes (one of which had a supporting role in The Paisley Pixie), one set of very plain undersleeves, a couple of plain collars, and one nicer collar that is in dire need of Oxy-Clean.<br />
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HSF #7, Accessorize, sounded like a great opportunity to fill in some gaps. I decided I needed fancy undersleeves. 1860s undersleeves can be works of art, all fluffy, frilly, lacey, ribbon-y goodness. The problem was deciding exactly what design to make up or copy.<br />
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The HSF challenge has been very good for me in several ways. One way is how it forces me to make a decision and get moving. When I don't have a close deadline, I will take a long time on deciding exactly what to make, and take lots of breaks during construction to research certain elements. (Like the issue I had with the pleat pattern on the back of <a href="http://sceneinthepast.blogspot.com/2013/03/the-paisley-pixie-gown.html">the red wool dress</a>.) But when a countdown clock is ticking, whether for an event or a challenge, I'm forced to research quickly and efficiently. In this case, however, costuming the early 1860s is where I have my personal<i>* </i>highest standards. So not only are there literally thousands of inspiration images to choose from, I was more hyper than usual about choice of materials.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">* Personal: Meaning these are my own standards<span style="font-size: x-small;"> for what <i>I</i> do, not for how I judge anyone else's w<span style="font-size: x-small;">ork.</span></span></span><br />
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All that to say: I didn't start researching this until the first few days of the challenge. Once I found an image, I studied it a lot, asked for advice, studied more, played with my stash, and eventually had the world's ugliest mock-up and a decent pattern. By day 8. Out of the remaining 6 days, 3 would be away from home and 1 was otherwise fully occupied. I worked hard even on my trip, but I knew they wouldn't get done without an all-nighter. And <i>that</i> was not the point of the challenge.<br />
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So I didn't finish my undersleeves! But day 14, I came up with an alternativee plan that was way easier, fits both the challenge and another wardrobe gap, and goes with the undersleeves perfectly. A collar from the same fabric:<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8648624321/" title="DSC06822 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06822" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8123/8648624321_2b9e56faf9_z.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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<i><b>The Challenge: </b></i>HSF #7, Accessorize<br />
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<b><i>Fabric: </i></b>Machine-embroidered sheer cotton, vintage curtains, from the Benbrook Antique Mall<br />
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<b><i>Pattern:</i></b><i> </i><b> </b><a href="http://www.lafnmoon.com/product_p/p111.htm">Laughing Moon #111</a><br />
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<b><i>Year: </i></b> c. 1860-1864<br />
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<i><b>Notions: </b></i>Narrow cotton machine-made valenciennes lace; probably from an antique mall somewhere in Texas. 1/4" cotton "galon" twill tape from India; extra lightweight/thin, from ebay, the last the seller had. <br />
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<i><b>How historically accurate is it? </b></i>As close to 100% as I can get without documenting lace or machine-made embroidery patterns. Bias tape was more common than twill tape in these collars, but it was used. Oh, and I used poly thread, because it's the only fine thread I have. Say 95%.<br />
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<i><b>Hours to complete: </b></i>No more than 3.<br />
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<b><i>First worn: </i></b>Not yet. Probably at Gettysburg in late June.<br />
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<i><b>Total cost: </b></i>None, or pennies at most. The collar fabric was scraps from the undersleeves, and the lace and tape were bought for the stash.<br />
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With <i>very</i> few exceptions, no mid-19th-century dress was complete without a collar. In most cases they were finished with a bias or twill tape that was basted to the <i>inside</i> of the dress neckline, thus protecting the edge of the dress from oil and dirt. Sometimes they were plain, but often they were of very fine fabrics, which could be embroidered and/or edged with lace, or completely of lace. By the early 1860s they were also fairly narrow, 1 - 1.5" wide. The width of a collar is an easy way to date an image, by the way; 15-20 years earlier, collars could be 3 - 4" wide.<br />
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With a basic bodice pattern, no separate collar pattern is usually needed. Except that I've had wretched luck with collars in the past, always ending up with them too short, or too long, or with the ends wonky, and always crooked when I baste them on. My one success has come with the Laughing Moon pattern, which was recommended by a lady who had a business making beautiful and accurate 1860s clothing. So I had no hesitation in pulling out this pattern and going for it.<br />
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Laying out the pattern was one of the trickiest parts. Like most sheers, the cotton was wiggly. And the embroidery was not done consistently with the grain. (Look at the first picture. See four dots on the left, and three on the right? I didn't even see that until I was nearly finished.) Once I found a fairly pleasing position for the motifs, I pinned the pattern down. But instead of cutting, I traced around it.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8649724374/" title="DSC06812 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06812" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8241/8649724374_3cbcd32b2e_z.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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It's easy to distort sheer fabrics when stitching on them. So I took a cue from 18th century embroidery techniques, and applied my embellishment before cutting out.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8648621467/" title="DSC06813 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06813" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8260/8648621467_e23e45691d_z.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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With fine thread, I sewed the lace down flat, just covering the cutting line. <br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8649725296/" title="DSC06815 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06815" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8533/8649725296_b417257a75_z.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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I did the same with the galloon tape, sewing one edge to the collar about 1/4" (the seam allowance) away from the cutting edge.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8648622351/" title="DSC06816 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06816" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8391/8648622351_38a85ef3e1_z.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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I hope you can see how thin the tape is.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8649725974/" title="DSC06817 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06817" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8252/8649725974_577485a9b0_z.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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The tape stands up because it's a straight strip, being forced to fit a curve. This should allow it to fold under the neckline of the dress. <br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8648622993/" title="DSC06818 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06818" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8266/8648622993_2c9f9a8c2f_z.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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Then I carefully cut the collar out, roughly 1/8" from the stitching line of the tape...<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8649726544/" title="DSC06819 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06819" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8525/8649726544_6707aeeb74_z.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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... and underneath the lace.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8648623695/" title="DSC06820 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06820" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8395/8648623695_38a6d7ac9f_z.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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Finished collar!<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8649727174/" title="DSC06821 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06821" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8246/8649727174_bac7c3132c_z.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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There are raw edges, but this type of collar is not intended to be washed roughly. Before taking the pictures I hit it with spray starch and an iron.<br />
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More to come on the Saga of the Undersleeves! They may make an appearance as a later challenge.<br />
<br />Scene in the Pasthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00152966266473265321noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1692455426705092161.post-33133810578189517622013-03-28T12:00:00.000-05:002013-03-28T12:00:02.812-05:00The Paisley Pixie: The Hair<b>The Hair</b><br />
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Several weeks ago I did an informal hairstyle survey for my own benefit. I need to write up the results, similarly to the posing article, but most of my analysis is already on Pinterest: <a href="http://pinterest.com/SceneInThePast/1800-1810-regency-hair/">Hairstyles 1800-1810</a>, and <a href="http://pinterest.com/SceneInThePast/1810-1820-regency-hair/">Hairstyles 1810-1820</a>. I stuck mostly to portraits for this analysis, attempting to see what Real Women Wore. Fashion plates have very clear diagrams, but the styles tend to the extreme. They also presuppose things like a very low hairline/forehead, super thick front hair, or very precise curls, which isn't helpful for everyone.<br />
<b><br /></b>Preliminary conclusions of the most common style:<br />
* Hair pulled back straight and up high in back (showing for 1-2" above the crown of the head), in curls, soft loops, and/or braid.<br />
* Crosswise part, sometimes ear-to-ear, often further forward (some less than 1" deep).<br />
* Front hair parted center, side, or diagonally.<br />
* Front hair in <b>short</b> curls, usually tight and defined, sometimes loose and fluffy, and (in this survey)<b> </b>never longer than the lobes of the ears/corner of the jaw. (Only exceptions were the "extreme Classical" style with lots of loose, stringy curls, or the soft, longer hair of the late 1790s. I didn't find any examples of long "sausage" curls in front of the ears.)<br />
* Often the center hair, or "bangs," is shorter than the rest of the front hair, and curled inward like spit curls instead of in ringlets. <br />
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This is a very limited survey, but it really helped me to focus on what I wanted. Instead of throwing my hair in hot sticks, trying to pin the messy curls up in "artless disorder," and doing something random with my bangs. ;)<br />
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I started with day-old hair that had already been set in pincurls. I re-set the very front, but I had some excellent tight curls that made the back hair a snap to arrange and keep up. <br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8587283617/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="DSC06500 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06500" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8527/8587283617_0f226ed4f6.jpg" height="500" width="375" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I did a crosswise part that framed my face and ended at the hairline in front of the ears.</td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8588384326/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="DSC06501 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06501" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8515/8588384326_863ef3dca7.jpg" height="500" width="375" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Then I set pincurls, using setting lotion and making them quite small. The longer side curls I curled forward and down. My shorter bangs I curled forward and up, to get a spit curl shape.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8587284541/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="DSC06502 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06502" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8526/8587284541_a27fcdbc37.jpg" height="500" width="375" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I brushed the rest of my hair straight back and put it in a fairly high ponytail. My head is somewhat sloping and flat right there, so I need to work extra hard to get the proper height.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8587285033/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="DSC06503 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06503" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8086/8587285033_2f6caa1688.jpg" height="500" width="375" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I wrapped my long braid hairpiece in a wide,<i> </i><b>loose</b> loop around the ponytail.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8587285967/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="DSC06505 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06505" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8510/8587285967_21305d55ef.jpg" height="500" width="375" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I pinned the loop forward to make sure it stayed high enough. I could have pulled it even further forward. Plan for gravity!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8588386948/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="DSC06507 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06507" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8512/8588386948_2c4b48e2d2.jpg" height="500" width="375" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">As best I could, I separated my ponytail into big ringlets, fluffed them, and pulled them around the braid.</td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8587287525/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="DSC06509 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06509" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8381/8587287525_b1a33112ee.jpg" height="500" width="375" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I pinned them here and there.</td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8587288327/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="DSC06511 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06511" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8385/8587288327_410d226abc.jpg" height="500" width="375" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I tried to pull some forward, too, so they were visible from the front.</td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8588389514/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="DSC06513 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06513" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8507/8588389514_be74d90c4f.jpg" height="500" width="375" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Then I brushed out the pincurls. The magic about pincurls is that they can be brushed into a particular shape. On this side, I brushed them over my fingers into a soft but still tight sort of ringlet-roll.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8588389960/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="DSC06514 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06514" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8510/8588389960_fa5c064c1c.jpg" height="500" width="375" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the other side, I ended up with some better ringlets and fluff. The bangs I didn't brush much; they curled nicely.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8588389060/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="DSC06512 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06512" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8370/8588389060_06d9a9f9eb.jpg" height="500" width="375" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ta-da! Pre humidity and wind!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/festiveattyre/8584577106/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="DSC06971 by festive attyre, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06971" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8232/8584577106_6d44f451c6.jpg" height="500" width="375" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wet and wind are enemies of curl, but wet sets and setting lotion go a long way. No hairspray!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
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<br />
I really like the style. Even with the extreme humidity, my curls relaxed only slightly. (Wet sets all the way!) Wind would have blown them out, but that's something they would have dealt with back then, too.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/festiveattyre/8584579476/" title="DSC06939 by festive attyre, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06939" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8527/8584579476_a47be96f4a.jpg" height="500" width="375" /></a></div>
<br />
I actually kept the hairstyle for that evening (without the bandeau!), when I sang in a choir concert. Even with the front curls it wasn't too far from a modern formal updo.<br />
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What I would do differently:<br />
<br />
1. Pull the ponytail even further forward; maybe an inch. Gravity pulls it back, but it could have started higher.<br />
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2. For the side front curls, use tiny rollers instead of pincurls. Flat pincurls are best for waves, but they're not so good at ringlets. Rollers or standing pincurls are how to make ringlets. I can't sleep on standing pincurls at the side of my head, so I'll use either small foam rollers (1/2") or, more likely, the smaller vintage metal ones.<br />
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Even with pincurls, though, the look is pretty good and it stays. Yay!<br />
<br />Scene in the Pasthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00152966266473265321noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1692455426705092161.post-72853256699852541282013-03-27T12:00:00.000-05:002013-03-27T16:34:46.828-05:00The Paisley Pixie: The Gown<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/festiveattyre/8584578564/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="DSC06951 by festive attyre, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06951" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8086/8584578564_6db7121c62.jpg" height="500" width="333" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">(photo by <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/festiveattyre/">festive attyre</a>)<u><br /></u></td></tr>
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It's a bit difficult to post about the dress. I already focused on the fringe for HSF #4, and my first post back in January had most of the design inspiration. The finished product is pretty much exactly what I had in mind. Rare for a perfectionist!<br />
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The <b>skirt</b> is mostly Skirt D, from Jean Hunnisett's <i>Period Costume for Stage and Screen.</i> (I use Hunnisett quite a bit for Regency. The book is not intended for total accuracy, but the Regency diagrams are taken from originals. And they cover the progression of Regency fashion, particularly covering the gaps left by <i>Patterns of Fashion.</i>) Skirt D was originally from a very narrow-width fabric, so it has one straight width in front, two right-angled gores on <i>each</i> side, and another straight width in the back. I cut my gores close to the original diagram proportions, while the back was a single full width. In hindsight, this was probably a little too much material for the period.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8436133475/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="DSC06158 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06158" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8188/8436133475_15ab3bc115.jpg" height="375" width="500" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cutting the gores by drawing with chalk directly on the fabric.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8467169858/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="DSC06189 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06189" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8092/8467169858_8dbcdecb24.jpg" height="375" width="500" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A tip from my mother: Use sticky dots to label pattern pieces and even right side/wrong side.</td></tr>
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I did not do a straight rectangle for the front of the skirt. I wanted plenty of fullness/swing at the hem, and a perfectly straight-fronted skirt is not a good idea on my wide hips. I am slightly paranoid that one of my gowns will pull across the hip when I stand straight! I made two changes:<br />
(1) I cut a narrow trapezoid instead of a rectangle, so there was more fullness at the hem.<br />
(2) I cut the waist concave, instead of straight; this causes the material to drape slightly in the center.<br />
I have no idea how essential these changes were (and they are period variations, by the way), but I have little to complain about with the shape I got. There certainly was no pulling at the hip.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/festiveattyre/8584683606/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="IMG_0868 by festive attyre, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_0868" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8240/8584683606_046183a8e1.jpg" height="400" width="500" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Too much of an overlap/pleat with the apron front? (photo by <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/festiveattyre/">festive attyre</a>)<u><br /></u></td></tr>
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Putting the skirt on the bodice was an unexpected difficulty. I didn't want to do knife pleats, because the Dreamstress had just done that for <i>her</i> wool Regency gown, and I wanna be special. ;) So I tried gathering it, only to discover that even with big hand gathering stitches, I couldn't gather the material tightly enough.<br />
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Then I tried various combinations of wide box pleats: centered, symmetric, stacked, box and knife combinations... The joker in the deck, besides the springiness of the fabric, was the upward curve of the waistline. When I set these box pleats in straight and then hung it, the sides of the pleats pushed upward.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8466077983/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="DSC06214 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06214" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8086/8466077983_79445e4991.jpg" height="375" width="500" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pooch!</td></tr>
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I think I basted in and tried on five variations, all told. This experience is the one that will make me finally get a dress form!<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/festiveattyre/8583475839/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="DSC06989 by festive attyre, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06989" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8230/8583475839_461d57f4c0.jpg" height="500" width="375" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I think there are triple stacked pleats in the center, and double on the sides. (photo by <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/festiveattyre/">festive attyre</a>)<u><br /></u></td></tr>
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The <b>bodice</b> itself is closely adapted from the <i>Patterns of Fashion</i> bib front gown (c. 1798-1805). It was not too hard to fit; the main issue was adding width in the center back and under the arms to keep the armholes placed correctly. The sleeves were a whole 'nother issue, however.<br />
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See, I was already on shaky ground trying to get a c. 1810-1815 shaped bodice and sleeves out of a c. 1798-1805 pattern. I thought that the pattern was dated only due to the skirt's train and the loose, elbow-length sleeves; since I was doing a different skirt and changing the sleeves, I thought I would be good. I really wanted to keep the pattern's small back, bib front, and cut-back armhole shape. Guess what: <a href="http://kleidungum1800.blogspot.com/2013/03/1815-merveilleuse-robe-quadrillee.html">Sabine, on her amazing 1815 gown,</a> demonstrated that 1810s armholes should be on the edge of the shoulder, not over the back. Whoops!<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8421434506/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="DSC06152 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06152" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8332/8421434506_891e098487.jpg" height="471" width="500" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My second muslin, testing the back waist curve and initial versions of the lining sleeve and puff sleeve.</td></tr>
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So I guess I'm shading this one back to ca. 1810 instead, when the bigger armhole is more likely. It's a bummer from one perspective, but still, I'm so glad to know. One of the things I love about making historical clothes is the learning. There's always more to discover!<br />
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Anyway, I wanted the short puff sleeve very short but full, with precise and interesting pleats, and an upward curve at the edge. I went through probably four muslins, before I got a decent shape. I ended up adding fullness to be controlled by pleats into the back of the armhole, a downward "swoop" at the edge that was gathered up with pleats in the center of the sleeve, and the edge itself controlled by more pleats. The wool was perfect material for this style of sleeve, because it's wonderfully drapey, but still has plenty of body to hold out the pleats and not go limp.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8466070967/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="DSC06175 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06175" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8245/8466070967_bba8c7e64c.jpg" height="375" width="500" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Final pattern shape for the puff sleeve.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8466071651/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="DSC06178 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06178" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8229/8466071651_f5c483ba97.jpg" height="375" width="500" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pinning in the center pleats to take up the fullness.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8466071875/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="DSC06179 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06179" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8094/8466071875_924831c79b.jpg" height="375" width="500" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Center pleats and cuff pleats basted.</td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="DSC06180" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8249/8467169006_16aa66dfd2.jpg" height="375" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="500" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sleeve head pleats basted.</td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8467183022/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="DSC06248 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06248" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8522/8467183022_2823f7c865.jpg" height="500" width="375" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finished!</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/festiveattyre/8583577251/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="IMG_0897 by festive attyre, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_0897" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8521/8583577251_5373424e72.jpg" height="500" width="375" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">(photo by <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/festiveattyre/">festive attyre</a>)<u><br /></u></td></tr>
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They do look a little extra-puffy from the back. Oh, well! I still like them. <br />
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I've also already explained the fringe addition to the edge. It's subtle, but I like the extra texture it gives.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8541328043/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="DSC06381 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06381" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8105/8541328043_2d252b6ac5.jpg" height="375" width="500" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back view, finished, with fringe and band.</td></tr>
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I did two other sleeves as well. As with the PoF gown, I did a short linen lining sleeve with no fullness, and a long straight-ish sleeve that would button onto it. The long sleeve is adapted from Hunnisett, but it's super simple: a long narrow trapezoid, with a little flare after the wrist so it can fall over the hand. Wrist bands are set into the sleeve seams, and wrap around and button to form a cuff.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/festiveattyre/8584578408/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="DSC06956 by festive attyre, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06956" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8241/8584578408_42b3a9c8e4.jpg" height="500" width="333" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">(photo by <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/festiveattyre/">festive attyre</a>)<u><br /></u></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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The sleeves worked fairly well. I wish the wrists were a little smaller; I may go back and narrow them. I will also raise up the attachment buttons. I kept revising the puff sleeve to be so short that I was afraid the long sleeves would pull up. Instead, I had some extra length. The white under sleeve did peek out under the puff sleeve at times, so I have both reason and room to move the attachment buttons up.<br />
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The <b>bib front</b> I based on a blue figured silk example. I made a first mockup with pins, trying for the closest proportions of the pleats. I made the pleats much deeper than visible; each one is about 1.5". The center shaping is just a dart. The pleats are not sewn down, as far as I can tell; they're secured at the edges and the center.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8420331675/" title="DSC06117 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06117" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8336/8420331675_72e1285ec2.jpg" height="375" width="500" /></a></div>
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I made a better mockup, with my best guess for width, and pinned it into the gown. I discovered that the original piece had to be an upside-down trapezoid to give it enough fullness to dart out at the edge. Also, I found that because of the "shelf" given by my stays, the center front dart would be strongly curved or bent instead of straight. But the pleat proportions were good.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8589685129/" title="DSC06250 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06250" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8374/8589685129_2f4d93fdde.jpg" height="343" width="500" /></a></div>
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I cut a piece out of the fabric, on the bias, 3-4" larger than I thought it needed to be. I did the pleating on the center front, then kept trying it with muslin side bands on to determine exactly how wide to make the finished version. As with the sleeves, the wool was a great material for this style. It would not have the same effect in cotton.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8590795234/" title="DSC06253 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06253" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8381/8590795234_784ce6b155.jpg" height="394" width="500" /></a>]</div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8542424054/" title="DSC06375 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8229/8542424054_c7c0f74aa1.jpg" height="375" width="500" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/festiveattyre/8584575042/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="DSC07008 by festive attyre, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC07008" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8102/8584575042_bd3866b02d.jpg" height="500" width="333" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">(photo by <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/festiveattyre/">festive attyre</a>)<u><br /></u></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
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Now that it's done, I can see from pictures that the bottom pleat should have been even deeper than 1.5". It's pulling out as the bib is folded over the shelf of the bust. There's no fixing it at this point, although I might try to pin the bib front a little lower to relieve the tension. <br />
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<br />
At the last minute, I added a tiny bum pad. It's just a piece of
muslin wrapped around a little of the thread left from making the
fringe, tacked together and then to the dress. I'm not sure how much of a
difference it made. Should it be stuffed a little more?<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8587294443/" title="DSC06532 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06532" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8509/8587294443_938411b2cb.jpg" height="375" width="500" /></a></div>
<br />
And finally, I added an interior waist tie. It's tacked at back, sides, and side fronts with a little <i>extra</i> ease. Thus when I tie it, it puts a smidge of extra tension on the bodice itself, making sure it's totally smooth around the stays.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8588395492/" title="DSC06534 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06534" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8514/8588395492_327c2c3bdf.jpg" height="375" width="500" /></a></div>
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<br />Scene in the Pasthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00152966266473265321noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1692455426705092161.post-25028765635008741282013-03-26T15:51:00.001-05:002013-03-26T15:51:32.883-05:00The Paisley Pixie: Wings 'n' MoreI started to make this one post with the Picnic, but there's just too much to combine. So I'll be doing some separate post on the construction of the Paisley Pixie. And also so this blog doesn't look so ME ME ME ME as the last post did!<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/festiveattyre/8583582353/" title="IMG_0872 by festive attyre, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_0872" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8097/8583582353_271bb8113b.jpg" height="500" width="375" /></a></div>
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<b>The Wings</b><br />
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<b> </b>Back in my <a href="http://sceneinthepast.blogspot.com/2013/01/a-new-project.html">first post</a> on the Paisley Pixie, I showed the vintage sari that I was going to use to create wings. Last week I finally took pinking shears to it and cut out over 140 large botehs, or paisley motifs.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8389145619/" title="Vintage Silk Sari 1 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="Vintage Silk Sari 1" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8187/8389145619_70bb2879fb.jpg" height="422" width="500" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8566363221/" title="DSC06479 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06479" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8529/8566363221_789788961c.jpg" height="375" width="500" /></a></div>
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I took the glittery fairy wings out of their package, spread waxed paper all over my cutting table, swiped a can of spray adhesive from my parents (with permission), and got to work. Or tried to.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8567462642/" title="DSC06483 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06483" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8366/8567462642_0f0f93fb43.jpg" height="375" width="500" /></a></div>
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I made a foundation layer for the wings from the main part of the sari. I wasn't sure how completely the paisley feathers would cover.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8567464100/" title="DSC06486 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06486" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8092/8567464100_20438ab220.jpg" height="375" width="500" /></a></div>
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I've never used spray adhesive before; eventually I figured out it wasn't strong enough to hold everything on, even with tissue-thin silk. It stayed sticky, and the fabric started sticking to the wax paper instead of to the wings. I tried putting some of the first paisleys on with adhesive, saturating them to get enough glue. Instead they just turned dark, with a sticky layer of visible glue on the surface of the fabric.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8567465918/" title="DSC06490 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06490" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8523/8567465918_372bdb463f.jpg" height="375" width="500" /></a></div>
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Real fabric glue was the next step. I grabbed the first thing I found at Joann's and tried again. It worked much better, although it was very thick and stringy, like hot glue, and I quickly ran out. I did most of the front of the wings with it, though, and was encouraged.<br />
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Next time I got a different kind of glue. It was more liquid and much easier to use. Unfortunately, it also soaked through and darkened the silk, permanently. I didn't discover this until the back side of the wings - the side totally unblocked by my body when worn - had been finished. After giving up for a few days, I used extra paisleys and carefully layered them over the darkest and most obvious blotches. That was as good as I could get it.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/festiveattyre/8584576572/" title="DSC06981 by festive attyre, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06981" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8512/8584576572_08919cd7ba.jpg" height="375" width="500" /></a></div>
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The wings, as originally designed, stayed in position between my shoulder blades with some elastic loops. The glue and silk, although super light, added enough weight that the finished wings sagged. So I pinned some gray twill tape to the center back and used it to tie the wings into place.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/festiveattyre/8583477547/" title="DSC06963 by festive attyre, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06963" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8528/8583477547_800025b8ed.jpg" height="500" width="375" /></a></div>
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<b>The Accessories</b><br />
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I don't think I got any pictures with <a href="http://sceneinthepast.blogspot.com/2013/03/historical-sew-fortnightly-6-stripes.html">the fringed reticule</a>. It was used, though, and very glad I was to have it.<br />
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The wand is a medium-sized loom bobbin. I found it at the Antique Elegance show in February for $6. I tied on some streamers of scrap from cutting out the bobbins and went with it. I figured a bobbin was appropriate for a Paisley Pixie!<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8587299287/" title="DSC06544 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06544" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8384/8587299287_5d55242072.jpg" height="375" width="500" /></a></div>
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The chemisette is one I made for 1860s several years ago, with a plain narrow collar. It's not so typical a style for the 1800s-1810s, but it's perfectly plausible. And it was far better than nothing. I have plans for different types of chemisettes, ruffs, and even a "habit shirt" for this dress eventually.<br />
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I wore green <a href="http://www.robertlandhistoricshoes.com/servlet/Detail?no=55">Robert Land shoes</a>. These are appropriate for the 1810s, although the latchet style seems like a throwback to the 1770s and 1780s. But the <a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537344557630/">flat profile</a> and <a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537344173713/">rounded toe</a> is a transition, from the <a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537346039588/">pointy-toed heels</a> of the 1790s and <a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537344641670/">pointy-toed flats</a> of the 1800s to the square toes of the 1830s.<br />
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<div style="line-height: 0px; padding-bottom: 2px; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537344557631/" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://media-cache-ec1.pinterest.com/736x/e0/5b/94/e05b948bf644944fe3823bc0af07d318.jpg" height="266" width="399.8471337579618" /></a></div>
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<div style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px;">
Source: <a href="http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O76162/pair-of-shoes/" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;">collections.vam.ac.uk</a> via<a href="http://pinterest.com/SceneInThePast" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Ginger - Scene in the Past</a> on <a href="http://pinterest.com/" style="color: #76838b; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Pinterest</a></div>
</div>
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The shawl I picked up at a Civil War reenactment several years ago; I honestly don't remember where. It's not really big enough for either the 1860s or for Regency, but the pattern is wonderful. If I ever find the source again, I want to get two and seam them together for the perfect Regency shawl.<br />
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And finally, gloves. These are a total cheat: 1950s nylon! But they are finished and embossed to look like kid leather. <span style="color: blue;">Real </span>kid leather gloves get brown spots when they get wet<span style="color: blue;">,</span> so I was not going to use my nice leather gloves on a picnic. Sorry, world! I'm meditating a search for mustard yellow leather gloves, though. Yellow was a popular color for gloves and shoes. Wouldn't that be nice with the red?<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/festiveattyre/8584575042/" title="DSC07008 by festive attyre, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC07008" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8102/8584575042_bd3866b02d.jpg" height="500" width="333" /></a></div>
Scene in the Pasthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00152966266473265321noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1692455426705092161.post-19447650999691454812013-03-25T17:23:00.002-05:002013-03-25T17:23:22.650-05:00Picnic with the PixiesWhew! I am totally exhausted, but it was such a fun time. And
imperfections and all, I am very happy with how my whole "look" came
out. It's hard for a perfectionist to say, but I think I'm satisfied.<br />
<br />
All of these pictures but one are courtesy of Jennifer Thompson. Thank you, Jen! You can see many more at her Flickr <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/festiveattyre/sets/72157633070224289/with/8583574657/">here</a>. <br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/festiveattyre/8583582495/" title="IMG_0869 by festive attyre, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_0869" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8520/8583582495_d198581d6d.jpg" height="500" width="333" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/festiveattyre/8583475839/" title="DSC06989 by festive attyre, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06989" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8230/8583475839_461d57f4c0.jpg" height="500" width="375" /></a></div>
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In typical Texas fashion, the weather was totally unpredictable. March has rapidly warmed up around here. Temperatures in the 80s, strong winds, both humidity and dry weather, lead to severe thunderstorms and grassfire threats. And then the wind shifts around violently and we're cold again.<br />
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We hit 88F on March 4, and were back up in the 80s last weekend. (With several cold fronts in between.) Then several weak cold fronts kept us in the 60s with lots of clouds and humidity, and a looming threat of the most rain on Saturday. We played it by ear, kept in touch by Facebook, and went for it.<br />
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Saturday morning I woke up to a thunderstorm. I only got a little rain for all the noise it made, and it seemed likely that the actual storms would be done by mid-morning. It stayed cloudy and chilly, with a high of only 54F, but all we had were sprinkles! We had a good turnout, including adults, children, dogs, and dolls! and a lovely spread of munchies. The Grapevine Botanic Gardens had a nice pavilion setup with benches and a podium, and plenty of walks for strolling and pictures. No one sat on the ground, but even then it was only slightly muddy.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/festiveattyre/8584579476/" title="DSC06939 by festive attyre, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06939" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8527/8584579476_a47be96f4a.jpg" height="500" width="375" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/festiveattyre/8583474865/" title="DSC07005 by festive attyre, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC07005" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8390/8583474865_fd80b41235.jpg" height="375" width="500" /></a></div>
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When Jen arrived, she and Erin and I wandered around together, taking pictures and playing at posing. It was fun! The guidelines and ideas I had made posing SO much easier, although I still really relied on Jen to tell me where to turn. White space in particular is hard to achieve by yourself.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8588390360/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="DSC06515 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06515" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8235/8588390360_61930307a5.jpg" height="500" width="375" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I took this one!<u><br /></u></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
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Jen got lots of good pictures, some with my wings, and more without them. <br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/festiveattyre/8584578564/" title="DSC06951 by festive attyre, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06951" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8086/8584578564_6db7121c62.jpg" height="500" width="333" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/festiveattyre/8583478033/" title="DSC06954 by festive attyre, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06954" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8370/8583478033_f5e8cd4162.jpg" height="500" width="333" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/festiveattyre/8584578074/" title="DSC06961 by festive attyre, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06961" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8249/8584578074_64d9888273.jpg" height="500" width="333" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/festiveattyre/8584577324/" title="DSC06969 by festive attyre, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06969" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8246/8584577324_ea577b8f3c.jpg" height="500" width="375" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/festiveattyre/8584577106/" title="DSC06971 by festive attyre, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06971" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8232/8584577106_6d44f451c6.jpg" height="500" width="375" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/festiveattyre/8584576572/" title="DSC06981 by festive attyre, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06981" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8512/8584576572_08919cd7ba.jpg" height="375" width="500" /></a></div>
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<br />
I admit I took the<span style="color: blue;"> wings</span> off fairly early. I think I need more confidence
wearing them! It was also cold and I really wanted to wear a shawl.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/festiveattyre/8584576358/" title="DSC06986 by festive attyre, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06986" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8239/8584576358_f65dc1a4c6.jpg" height="500" width="375" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/festiveattyre/8584574720/" title="DSC07013 by festive attyre, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC07013" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8511/8584574720_f7f1231c2d.jpg" height="500" width="375" /></a></div>
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Erin found a wonderful arbor for posing. Are those honeysuckle?<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/festiveattyre/8583583721/" title="IMG_0865 by festive attyre, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_0865" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8098/8583583721_1424d5f88a.jpg" height="500" width="333" /></a> </div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/festiveattyre/8584682312/" title="IMG_0873 by festive attyre, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_0873" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8086/8584682312_be624e2646.jpg" height="500" width="375" /></a> </div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/festiveattyre/8584680264/" title="IMG_0879 by festive attyre, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_0879" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8108/8584680264_609ae585f9.jpg" height="500" width="333" /></a> </div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/festiveattyre/8584679856/" title="IMG_0881 by festive attyre, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_0881" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8236/8584679856_c73d15c693.jpg" height="500" width="333" /></a> </div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/festiveattyre/8583577699/" title="IMG_0895 by festive attyre, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_0895" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8110/8583577699_0b1c72096d.jpg" height="500" width="375" /></a> </div>
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<span style="color: blue;"><span style="color: blue;">In one area of the gardens was a big tree surrounded by a fence.</span></span><br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/festiveattyre/8584673710/" title="IMG_0920 by festive attyre, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_0920" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8369/8584673710_6eeee6eb6c.jpg" height="500" width="375" /></a> </div>
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There's a plaque in front of the tree, put there in 1987. It commemorates that this tree (which we think is a post oak) was alive in 1787, the year the U.S. Constitution was signed. So neat! Most of North Texas is prairie, or former prairie, so old trees are unusual.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/festiveattyre/8583572539/" title="IMG_0924 by festive attyre, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_0924" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8108/8583572539_cf01b62dec.jpg" height="500" width="375" /></a> </div>
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Cold, drizzle, and all, it was a great day!<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/festiveattyre/8583574657/" title="IMG_0912 by festive attyre, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_0912" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8225/8583574657_12ba2c0477.jpg" height="375" width="500" /></a></div>
Scene in the Pasthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00152966266473265321noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1692455426705092161.post-47061212974423798182013-03-22T14:43:00.002-05:002013-03-22T14:43:59.134-05:00Historical Sew Fortnightly #6: Stripes: Fringed Reticule<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://thedreamstress.com/the-historical-sew-fortnightly/"><img border="0" src="http://thedreamstress.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/HSFsm.jpg" /></a></div>
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I desperately needed a reticule to go with the red wool dress from the Embellish challenge. I had some fabric left, and a good length of self-made fringe. So I was off!<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8566361203/" title="DSC06466 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06466" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8244/8566361203_c6c1c99f0e.jpg" height="500" width="375" /></a><br />
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I've been planning to make some reticules for a while, collecting images on <a href="http://pinterest.com/SceneInThePast/1800-1820-regency-accessories/">a Pinterest board</a>. So when it was time to make this bag, researching was fast! The majority of surviving bags tend to be silk, in light colors, and embroidered or painted. Neither one of those options was going to work for this bag. There were a few dark colored ones I found, mostly in velvet; and one of those did not have any trim at all, although it had some big tassels.<br />
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<a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537345715023/" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://media-cache-ec4.pinterest.com/736x/d9/b9/e6/d9b9e61441083c67bbd3639ba04fc81d.jpg" height="345" width="499.50920245398777" /></a></div>
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Source: <a href="http://metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/80050364?rpp=60&pg=2&ao=on&ft=bag&when=A.D.+1800-1900&pos=78" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;">metmuseum.org</a> via<a href="http://pinterest.com/SceneInThePast" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Ginger - Scene in the Past</a> on <a href="http://pinterest.com/" style="color: #76838b; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Pinterest</a></div>
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I also quickly decided I wanted a bag that was 3-D, instead of flat or gathered all around. I was particularly drawn to bags with angles and straight edges instead of curves. <br />
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<a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537345176100/" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://media-cache-ec6.pinterest.com/736x/ed/ce/03/edce03b58f51ab9ae9414a24b888132d.jpg" height="500" width="357.5757575757576" /></a></div>
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Source: <a href="http://collectionsonline.lacma.org/mwebcgi/mweb.exe?request=record;id=159504;type=101" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;">collectionsonline.lacma.org</a> via<a href="http://pinterest.com/SceneInThePast" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Ginger - Scene in the Past</a> on <a href="http://pinterest.com/" style="color: #76838b; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Pinterest</a></div>
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<a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537345553687/" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://media-cache-ec4.pinterest.com/736x/49/ad/0d/49ad0d6c4d4234725a0fb667f11af915.jpg" height="500" width="281.6229116945108" /></a></div>
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Source: <a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/collections/search-the-collections/80094708" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;">metmuseum.org</a> via<a href="http://pinterest.com/SceneInThePast" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Ginger - Scene in the Past</a> on <a href="http://pinterest.com/" style="color: #76838b; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Pinterest</a></div>
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This was my favorite. It's been folded very flat, but it does appear to be three-sided instead of two. (Hurrah for multiple pictures at the Met!) If it is three sides, it should be assembled just like the purple silk bag. There are only three pieces, each a tall hexagon. The long sides are sewn to each other, then the bottom points are sewn together to make a bag. The top points on the velvet bag are left free to stick up, because the drawstring channel is run across from corner to corner.<br />
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<a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537344783420/" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://media-cache-ec2.pinterest.com/736x/87/12/c6/8712c68a11d7d9b17c4261c75d54669f.jpg" height="500" width="376.9968051118211" /></a></div>
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Source: <a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/collections/search-the-collections/80050356" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;">metmuseum.org</a> via<a href="http://pinterest.com/SceneInThePast" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Ginger - Scene in the Past</a> on <a href="http://pinterest.com/" style="color: #76838b; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Pinterest</a></div>
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I made my best guess on the proportions from dimensions at the Met and MFA for similar bags. I deliberately erred on the "too wide" side because I want this bag to be functional. Tiny, ornate little jugs or pineapples are adorable, but I really needed a bag I could carry keys, a phone, and a camera in. Besides, when I <i>do </i>make a tiny reticule, I want it to be something awesome and beaded or netted or embroidered within an inch of its life!<br />
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To fit the Stripes challenge, I thought it would be fun to do the same thing with fringe on the bag that I did on the skirt. I had <i>exactly </i>enough fringe to go twice around the bag. I cut the bag pieces long enough to do the inverse tuck I did for setting the upper row on my skirt. This time I took better pictures. It's a much smaller project, so it's easier to document what I did. Although the red turned out very reflective with the flash, so maybe these won't be helpful at all.<br />
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To start, I sewed the pieces together into a strip. This would be incredibly difficult to do in the round.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8566355771/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="DSC06446 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06446" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8225/8566355771_589e690a35.jpg" height="375" width="500" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pressing lines for the two tucks.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8567453572/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="DSC06448 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06448" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8112/8567453572_10b70f152b.jpg" height="375" width="500" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It's hard to see, but this is with the first fold pressed. Wrong sides are together, with the shorter side on top.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8567454416/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="DSC06450 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06450" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8236/8567454416_3847b9b0ce.jpg" height="375" width="500" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pressing the second fold of the tuck, on the wrong side. It's about 5/8" deep; tricky to get precise with this wool.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8566357517/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="DSC06451 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06451" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8520/8566357517_3e2293e299.jpg" height="375" width="500" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One tuck done.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8567455306/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="DSC06452 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06452" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8103/8567455306_0cb3a3ce31.jpg" height="375" width="500" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Detail view, from the right side.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8567455692/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="DSC06453 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06453" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8512/8567455692_6a3e3ce02e.jpg" height="375" width="500" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Both tucks done, ready to insert the fringe.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8567456018/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="DSC06454 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06454" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8089/8567456018_0d5382640d.jpg" height="375" width="500" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">First row of fringe sewn in, and the second row half sewn and half pinned. This was easy to do from the right side.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8566358971/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="DSC06455 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06455" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8526/8566358971_814a86579f.jpg" height="375" width="500" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Reverse side, showing the tucks pointing upward.</td></tr>
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Then I prepped the lining. Since I wanted standing points, those had to be faced; but I wasn't excited about having more wool on the inside of the bag. So I cut facings for just the points, and sewed them to a linen lining.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8567456724/" title="DSC06456 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06456" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8388/8567456724_b9d9bc6f21.jpg" height="375" width="500" /></a><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8566359715/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="DSC06457 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06457" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8381/8566359715_5b218a6bb2.jpg" height="375" width="500" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">All visible sewing is by hand.</td></tr>
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I also did two eyelets on the inside, for the drawstring casing.<br />
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Figuring out how to assemble this was tricky. My goal was to be able to sew everything together, turn it, and have one inside lining seam to do from the outside. I thought it all through several times, then pin basted the entire thing just to make sure. Then I took notes so I wouldn't forget how I did it. The drawstring casing was done last, by hand, when it was entirely assembled.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8580020621/" title="DSC06458 edited by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06458 edited" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8225/8580020621_7814fd1260.jpg" height="375" width="500" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8566360527/" title="DSC06459 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06459" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8085/8566360527_27472b6775.jpg" height="375" width="500" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8566360899/" title="DSC06460 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06460" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8104/8566360899_ccecc582d8.jpg" height="375" width="500" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8566361127/" title="DSC06464 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06464" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8367/8566361127_b87acd6d7e.jpg" height="500" width="375" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8566361577/" title="DSC06469 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06469" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8245/8566361577_5bbcecdcca.jpg" height="375" width="500" /></a><br />
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Someday I will replace the ribbon ties with silk cord, and probably tassels as well. Lots of tassels!<br />
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<i><b>The Challenge: </b></i>HSF #6, Stripes<br />
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<b><i>Fabric: </i></b>Dark red wool tricotine from FFC<br />
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<b><i>Pattern:</i></b><i> </i><b> </b>Self-drafted from museum pictures and dimensions.<br />
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<b><i>Year: </i></b> 1800-1820, roughly.<br />
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<i><b>Notions: </b></i>1/8" black silk ribbon for the drawstrings. Self-fabric fringe.<br />
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<i><b>How historically accurate is it? </b></i>Oh... 60%? I can't exactly document the fabric or fringe on a reticule, but I have a very small number of examples to make generalizations from. I did machine sew pretty much all construction seams. This bag had to happen in one day or it wouldn't have happened at all. I wish I'd had the time to do it by hand! But the shape and construction is accurate.<br />
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<i><b>Hours to complete: </b></i>About 7; I did it last Friday. I got started in the early afternoon and finished in the middle of the evening. <br />
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<b><i>First worn: </i></b>This coming Saturday.<br />
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<i><b>Total cost: </b></i>None, because this was a bonus project by my standards. The fringe was left over, as was the wool. The ribbon is just stock on hand.<br />
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I did wonder briefly if perhaps matching the reticule to the dress is a no-no, as it is in other decades. As far as white cotton or silk goes, I think it's fine; extant dresses and reticules in white are plentiful. As for colored reticules, a quick survey of fashion plates showed three categories: Reticule matching <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/4843705071/in/set-72157624492170091">part of the evening dress</a>, <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/4843451781/">reticule matching spencer</a> or other wrap (and often other accessories), and reticule matching a "walking dress." <br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/4843709201/" title="M5053MA_214X02X00034_L_3 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="M5053MA_214X02X00034_L_3" src="http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4153/4843709201_16d7f4d7d0.jpg" height="500" width="319" /></a><br />
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My red gown isn't a walking dress, so this isn't the best documentation. But it's hard to prove or disprove a negative, so I'll just keep an eye out for different examples. For what it's worth, the many fashion plates of wool gowns don't show any reticules. And there are always more reticules in my plans.Scene in the Pasthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00152966266473265321noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1692455426705092161.post-40699683908638568442013-03-21T16:32:00.003-05:002013-03-21T16:32:57.520-05:00We were like children posing... Poses, First Edition: RegencyI'm a bit of a diva. I'm an introvert, but if I know what I'm doing (like singing a song, performing a dance, or flying a kite in full 1780s ensemble), I admit I like attention! And usually, posing for pictures when I'm all dolled up in a vintage or historical outfit is the same. But sometimes, I get an an attack of "I don't know what I'm doing!" Suddenly I have no idea how to stand, what to do with my hands, how to position my feet, or do anything else with my body. So I just default to nothing at all.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/festiveattyre/6377583837/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="DSC06751 by festive attyre, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06751" src="http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6060/6377583837_5498714557.jpg" height="500" width="375" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><u>Photo by Festive Attyre, who was certainly not to blame for the lack of a pose.</u></td></tr>
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I've thought about researching how to pose; Stephanie shared some terrific <a href="http://star-spangledheart.blogspot.com/2013/02/learning-how-to-pose.html">posing basics recently</a>. But those are general techniques<i>.</i> What poses did <i>they </i>do back then? And <i>which</i> "then" are we talking about? Take Betty Grable's iconic pinup. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/95/Betty_Grable_20th_Century_Fox.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/95/Betty_Grable_20th_Century_Fox.jpg" height="320" width="254" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Betty_Grable_20th_Century_Fox.jpg">Source</a></td></tr>
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That would look really strange in an 1860s hoop skirt! Each period has its own style and its own points of beauty to emphasize.<br />
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So mostly for my own education and entertainment, I'm going to make an informal survey of original pictures from different periods to figure out a handful of basic poses for each. Particularly I'm going to focus on full-length, standing-still views that don't rely on large props like furniture, or seated poses without tables or other things. Usually when I take costume pictures I'm without any props except for what I carry, such as in the halls at Costume College. My best opportunities tend to be a tree or two when I'm outside. <br />
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First up, I'm starting with the Regency period. The Picnic with the Pixies is Saturday, and I want to be prepared!<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">*<span style="font-size: x-small;"> T</span>he title line is from the song "Charade," from the 1963 movie of the same name. Music by Henry Mancini, lyrics by Johnny Mercer.</span><br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Classical Ideal: Posing in the Regency Style</span></b></div>
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<u><b>Free Standing</b></u><br />
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I prefer portraits, because they don't tend to suffer from bad drawing or out of proportion figures like fashion plates do. However, full-length free-standing portraits are rare. Anne has the benefit of a romantic seaside backdrop, and a shawl
that is both rippling in the wind and velcro'd to her left elbow. But
the right hand placement is graceful, and her hidden left hand could be
holding a reticule or parasol. Her whole body, and her head, are angled
slightly away from the viewer. One foot is foward.<br />
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<div style="line-height: 0px; padding-bottom: 2px; text-align: center;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537345475188/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://media-cache-ec3.pinterest.com/736x/b9/00/df/b900dfa573ec4623599e51af0580aa4b.jpg" height="295" width="236" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Joseph Clover, Anne, Lady Beechey</td></tr>
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<div style="float: left; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; text-align: center;">
<div style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px;">
Source: <a href="http://www.bbc.co.uk/arts/yourpaintings/paintings/anne-lady-beechey-b-1764-464" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;">bbc.co.uk</a> via<a href="http://pinterest.com/SceneInThePast" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Ginger - Scene in the Past</a> on <a href="http://pinterest.com/" style="color: #76838b; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Pinterest</a></div>
</div>
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From a fashion plate, but this is just a single example of a very simple and common pose. Face and body straight or barely angled to the viewer with one arm
down by her side holding something (anything - just make sure it's
something) and the other bent at an acute angle, with the hand just
across the centerline of the body. White space is achieved between both
arms and the waist. Feet are in fourth ballet position, with the front
foot pointed.<br />
This can be done with an accessory, like a reticule, in the upper hand, or it can be empty. The hand can also be held <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/6303422365/in/set-72157628030970730">higher</a>, <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/6303944816/in/set-72157628030970730">lower</a>, or <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/6303948256/in/set-72157628030970730">lower still</a>. Just keep the elbow bent and the wrist curved downward. If the hands are any lower, they're usually <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/4842126830/in/set-72157624611694164">together.</a><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537345499347/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://media-cache-lt0.pinterest.com/736x/9d/e1/a8/9de1a89e86c2efd004650327376f2126.jpg" height="373" width="236" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1814, Costume Parisien. Dress of wool.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div style="float: left; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px;">
<div style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px;">
Source: <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/6303202587/in/set-72157627905910153/" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;">flickr.com</a> via<a href="http://pinterest.com/SceneInThePast" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Ginger - Scene in the Past</a> on <a href="http://pinterest.com/" style="color: #76838b; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Pinterest</a></div>
</div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
This is very elegant, whether you have an accessory or not. Arms crossed, slightly clasping the wrists. Plenty of white space around the waistline. Body facing the viewer, face and gaze tilted away and slightly down. Feet in fourth ballet position.<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/6303422231/in/set-72157628030970730">Here's a variation</a> with the hands lower down, but elbows still strongly angled.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/6303469305/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="M5053MA_214X03X00039_L_3 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="M5053MA_214X03X00039_L_3" src="http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6060/6303469305_bce757ef70.jpg" height="500" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1815</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
I like this variation - the pensive look! It's rather sweet. One hand holding the other elbow, fingers on the side of the face. Facing the viewer, head tilted toward the hand. Feet in a loose third, pointed.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/4841510321/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="M5053MA_MODX08X00084_L_4 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="M5053MA_MODX08X00084_L_4" src="http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4146/4841510321_0559956a19.jpg" height="500" width="326" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><u>1810, Costume Parisien. Velvet hat, trimmed with plush-marten. Velvet jacket.</u></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
Here, angle the body slightly away, and
turn the head slightly back to the viewer. The
active hand is shading the eyes or touching up the curls,
and the feet are in third ballet position with the angled
foot directly toward the viewer. <a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537344194261/">Here</a> is another plate where the figure is touching her headdress. It may feel awkward (or silly!) to us, but it's a period pose.<br />
<br />
<div style="line-height: 0px; padding-bottom: 2px; text-align: center;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537343628608/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://media-cache-lt0.pinterest.com/736x/3f/e5/a3/3fe5a318564fd1e1ceed851df1ef6dc9.jpg" height="396" width="236" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1816, Costume Parisien. Satin spencer, dress of crepe.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div style="float: left; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px;">
<div style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px;">
Source: <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/6304065668/in/set-72157627906435963/" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;">flickr.com</a> via<a href="http://pinterest.com/SceneInThePast" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Ginger - Scene in the Past</a> on <a href="http://pinterest.com/" style="color: #76838b; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Pinterest</a></div>
</div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
The lady in a tam is in a surprisingly modern pose. Is her hand
really on her hip? She looks very jaunty, and with her hand hidden by
her plaid, she's not emphasizing an unfashionable waistline. Body angled
away from the viewer, head turned slightly toward, one hand on a chair
back (or a wall, or a table, or a fence, &c.), left foot forward
with supporting leg bent. I'm not sure that last part is physically
sustainable. Just don't stand straight with your feet together!<br />
<br />
<div style="line-height: 0px; padding-bottom: 2px; text-align: center;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537343628379/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://media-cache-ec4.pinterest.com/736x/09/05/f8/0905f896e5a0ad69e0c679ab123c15c4.jpg" height="379" width="236" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><u>March 1814. Opera Dress. La Belle Assemblée.</u></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div style="float: left; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px;">
<div style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px;">
Source: <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/6303841830/in/set-72157627905910153/" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;">flickr.com</a> via<a href="http://pinterest.com/SceneInThePast" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Ginger - Scene in the Past</a> on <a href="http://pinterest.com/" style="color: #76838b; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Pinterest</a></div>
</div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
This is somewhat unusual, but it's so striking I'm including it. The
subject is an older lady, wearing an old-fashioned cap with a fashionable dress. The pose is completely side-on, arms gracefully bent
and hands holding a posey in front of her. Note also that she is in
motion, or posed that way, with one foot in front of the other.<br />
<br />
<div style="line-height: 0px; padding-bottom: 2px; text-align: center;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537345675022/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://media-cache-lt0.pinterest.com/736x/a9/30/13/a930136fa31e04bd7b43f69746d0702b.jpg" height="282" width="236" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Woman in a Blue dress, Jacob Maentel, ca. 1810; Winterthur 1957.1121 A</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div style="float: left; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px;">
<div style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px;">
Source: <a href="http://museumcollection.winterthur.org/single-record.php?resultsperpage=20&view=catalog&srchtype=advanced&hasImage=on&ObjObjectName=&CreOrigin=&Earliest=&Latest=&CreCreatorLocal_tab=&materialsearch=&ObjObjectID=&ObjCategory=&DesMaterial_tab=&DesTechnique_tab=&AccCreditLineLocal=&CreMarkSignature=&recid=1957.1121%20A&srchfld=&srchtxt=bonnet&id=8de4&rownum=1" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;">museumcollection.winterthur.org</a> via<a href="http://pinterest.com/SceneInThePast" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Ginger - Scene in the Past</a> on <a href="http://pinterest.com/" style="color: #76838b; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Pinterest</a></div>
</div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<u><b>Free Standing, Back View</b></u><br />
<br />
<br />
This is excellent for
showing off the back of the dress. Whole body is slightly angled, upper
body slightly more away, and head approaching profile-view. Arms are
slightly bent and slightly to the front, preserving white space between
the body. The foot closest to the viewer is peeking out from under the
dress. Get in this pose as if standing at an angle, then take the left
foot and step away into fourth ballet position, shifting weight forward
and keeping the toe of the right on the ground. That should drape the
skirt nicely.<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 0px; padding-bottom: 2px; text-align: center;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537345499320/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://media-cache-ec2.pinterest.com/736x/14/40/5c/14405cb0103a0b07a165a37b805e541d.jpg" height="355" width="236" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><u>1811, Costume Parisien. Hat of satin and crepe; dress of merino wool.</u></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div style="float: left; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; text-align: center;">
<div style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px;">
Source: <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/4844037432/in/set-72157624616333004/" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;">flickr.com</a> via<a href="http://pinterest.com/SceneInThePast" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Ginger - Scene in the Past</a> on <a href="http://pinterest.com/" style="color: #76838b; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Pinterest</a></div>
</div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
Here is an unusual back view portrait, unfortunately not full length. The
girl's body is angled not completely back to the viewer. Her upper body
is slightly twisted toward the front, while her head is straight over
her right shoulder and her eyes meet the viewer's. Her back arm is down
and slightly bent, while her active arm is angled so her elbow is above
her waist. Her fingers and thumb make an "O," with fingers together,
just touching her cheek. Again, white space is preserved around her
waist, even with the draping of the shawl.<br />
<br />
<div style="line-height: 0px; padding-bottom: 2px; text-align: center;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537345535686/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://media-cache-ec5.pinterest.com/736x/a8/18/ac/a818ac3c6d463b7eba168792faaebebe.jpg" height="294" width="236" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ekaterina Vasilevna Saltykova, c. 1800</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div style="float: left; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; text-align: center;">
<div style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px;">
Source: <a href="http://pinterest.com/SceneInThePast" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Ginger - Scene in the Past</a> on <a href="http://pinterest.com/" style="color: #76838b; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Pinterest</a></div>
</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<br />
<u><b>Leaning</b></u><br />
<br />
<br />
Okay, I said I didn't want poses that relied on a prop. But Felicte's
pose is a favorite in portraits and fashion plates alike, and very Classically-inspired. She is leaning
slightly to the left, probably with her hip supported by the fence or
gate. The fence is just high enough to support her left elbow at a
slight angle away from her body. Her arm and hand come forward and
across her body. Her left leg crosses her right casually, feet fairly
close together and toes angled slightly toward each other. As with Lady
Beechy, her non-active arm and hand hangs at her side, in this case
holding both a bouquet and her shawl. Her head is tilted back slightly
to the right, opposite from how she's leaning.<br />
<br />
<div style="line-height: 0px; padding-bottom: 2px; text-align: center;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537345474926/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://media-cache-is0.pinimg.com/736x/2f/f4/35/2ff435e454876810df85c4868f9b6ce4.jpg" height="354" width="236" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Felicite de Durfort von Merry-Joseph Blondel, 1808</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div style="float: left; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; text-align: center;">
<div style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px;">
Source: <a href="http://blog.costumeantique.de/kostuemgeschichte/die-10-schonsten-empire-kleider/" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;">blog.costumeantique.de</a> via<a href="http://pinterest.com/SceneInThePast" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Ginger - Scene in the Past</a> on <a href="http://pinterest.com/" style="color: #76838b; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Pinterest</a></div>
</div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
This pose can be replicated against a vertical
surface like a fence, tree, boulder, interior wall, or even a doorframe.
The figure's feet are at least a foot away from the support, forcing
her to lean back into it. The surface and her body are both angled
significantly away to the viewer's left. Her arms are slightly bent,
hands holding a book; a fan could be used similarly. As with Felicite,
her left foot is crossed over the right, this time barely resting on the
ground, almost in fifth ballet position. Her face is angled (too much -
bad drawing) back to the viewer's right; either like this, or straight
at the camera, would be effective.<br />
<br />
<div style="line-height: 0px; padding-bottom: 2px; text-align: center;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537346157572/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://media-cache-ec7.pinterest.com/736x/0e/78/e7/0e78e761d00e3888f39e10bf4d610bba.jpg" height="359" width="236" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><u>1803, Costume Parisien. Hat of Organdie, Piquéé.</u></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div style="float: left; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px;">
<div style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px;">
Source: <a href="http://athousandpix.blogspot.com/search?updated-max=2012-05-26T19:51:00-07:00&max-results=10" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;">athousandpix.blogspot.com</a> via<a href="http://pinterest.com/SceneInThePast" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Ginger - Scene in the Past</a> on <a href="http://pinterest.com/" style="color: #76838b; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Pinterest</a></div>
</div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<u><b>Seated</b></u><br />
<br />
<br />
Part of the Regency aesthetic seems to have been the graceful,
relaxed curve of classic art. This is directly in opposition to the
super-straight-backed look of the 18th century; however, it is
definitely not a modern comfortable slouch.<br />
<br />
*
This lady is seated in a "modern" (Regency) chair with a slightly tilted
back. She is seated all the way back in it, gracefully reclining her
upper body. So she isn't sitting ramrod straight, but her belly (if she
had one!) isn't sagging. Also her shoulders are still down, not rounded
or slumped forward in a modern slouch. (Even in <a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537344642909/">this portrait</a>, the shoulders do not round forward.) Her head is tilted slightly forward.<br />
*
Her hands and forearms are slightly crossed, not quite to her elbows;
they're not tucked into each other in the modern style. This keeps that
all-important "white space" around her waist. Also, her arms are
positioned below her high waistline, but not resting on her belly or her
lap.<br />
* Her legs are extended forward, slightly bent at the knee,
and crossed just at the ankle. Again, the foot toward the viewer is
crossed over. One foot is flat on the ground, the other pointed. This
can be a very comfortable pose.<br />
<div style="line-height: 0px; padding-bottom: 2px; text-align: center;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537344642423/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://media-cache-ec6.pinterest.com/736x/e3/17/06/e3170602c79620c1e20d68f447b7eff0.jpg" height="284" width="236" /></a></td></tr>
<tr align="center"><td class="tr-caption"><u>1818</u></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div style="float: left; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; text-align: center;">
<div style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px;">
Source: <a href="http://www.dragonflyformals.com/" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;">dragonflyformals.com</a> via<a href="http://pinterest.com/SceneInThePast" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Ginger - Scene in the Past</a> on <a href="http://pinterest.com/" style="color: #76838b; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Pinterest</a></div>
</div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Here's a different seated pose, good for backless seats.<br />
*
Kitty is seated at an angle to the viewer, but leaning slightly forward
and twisting toward the viewer, looking back to her left. Her long
necklace or necklace can drape naturally. Her arms are resting in her
lap, one with plenty of white space from the gown. The other covers her
side, but her bare arm does not visually merge into her gown.<br />
*
Her legs and feet in particular are the key here. The back knee is bent
at right angles. The front leg is extended more like in the previous
portrait, with her foot showing. This is another comfortable Regency
pose that is easy to hold. Note that her knees are apart, although it's
not emphasized as in <a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537346028929/">some fashion plates</a>.
Try to avoid a knees-together pose for Regency; most of the time it
looks stiff and prim, opposite of the graceful, relaxed look desirable
for the period.<br />
<div style="line-height: 0px; padding-bottom: 2px; text-align: center;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537345856518/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://media-cache-ec2.pinterest.com/736x/0e/60/48/0e6048d151b6cb9fe5ecca2109a4bd7a.jpg" height="296" width="236" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Portrait of Kitty Packe, by Sir Henry William Beechey (1753-1839)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div style="float: left; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px;">
<div style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px;">
Source: <a href="http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Kitty_Packe.jpg" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;">commons.wikimedia.org</a> via<a href="http://pinterest.com/SceneInThePast" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Ginger - Scene in the Past</a> on <a href="http://pinterest.com/" style="color: #76838b; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Pinterest</a></div>
</div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
A seated pose in a short, nearly straight-back chair. It is <i>nearly</i> straight - her upper body does angle slightly back.<br />
*
The back arm is over the back of the chair, angling her body slightly;
she holds a fan, but a posey or a handkerchief or a card would work as
well. Note the white space between her arm and her waist. Her other arm
covers her waist, but like Kitty's, it is bare and doesn't blend. It is
slightly bent, with her wrist bent more and holding a handkerchief.<br />
* Her legs are crossed at the knee! Again, very modern to us, but very common in period <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/6303470073/in/set-72157628030970730">illustrations</a>. The near leg is the one that's on top.<br />
<div style="line-height: 0px; padding-bottom: 2px; text-align: center;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537345777498/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://media-cache-ec5.pinterest.com/736x/f9/96/96/f9969621ccefa48da2ea2f1e32ec1bbd.jpg" height="393" width="236" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">September 1813, Evening Dress. La Bell Assemblée.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div style="float: left; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px;">
<div style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px;">
Source: <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/4882855093/sizes/o/in/set-72157624704755764/" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;">flickr.com</a> via<a href="http://pinterest.com/SceneInThePast" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Ginger - Scene in the Past</a> on <a href="http://pinterest.com/" style="color: #76838b; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Pinterest</a></div>
</div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
Here, the Princess is seated, with lower back and tummy straight. I'd have to practice getting that
graceful upper body forward curve without actually slouching or rolling
my shoulders in! Her arms are together in her lap, palms upward,
fingers relaxed. Her feet aren't visible, but her legs aren't crossed; her ankles might be.<br />
<br />
<div style="line-height: 0px; padding-bottom: 2px; text-align: center;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537345417577/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://media-cache-ec5.pinterest.com/736x/c4/35/8a/c4358a64bfc0222c04c56d61fa0a8b2a.jpg" height="304" width="236" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Princess V. S. Dolgorukaya, Henri Francois Riesener</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
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<div style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px;">
Source: <a href="http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Varvara_Gagarina_Riesener.jpg" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;">commons.wikimedia.org</a> via<a href="http://pinterest.com/SceneInThePast" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Ginger - Scene in the Past</a> on <a href="http://pinterest.com/" style="color: #76838b; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Pinterest</a></div>
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One more seated picture. Again, legs crossed at the knee; also the hands
are together in the lap, this time palms down, hand on wrist. She is
sitting like the Princess, but with her head forward and tilted to the
side.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537345678838/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://media-cache-ec2.pinterest.com/736x/4a/75/ec/4a75ec108460e3b22ee3afe640b1d2f4.jpg" height="412" width="236" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><u>September 1814, "Sea Side Morning Dress and Bathing Preserver [?]," La Bell Assemblée.</u></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px;">
Source: <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/6303842028/in/set-72157627905910153" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;">flickr.com</a> via<a href="http://pinterest.com/SceneInThePast" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Ginger - Scene in the Past</a> on <a href="http://pinterest.com/" style="color: #76838b; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Pinterest</a></div>
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<u><b>General Guidelines</b></u><br />
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If you can't remember any one particular pose, but someone points a camera at you, what do you do?<br />
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* Angle your body away from the camera.<br />
* Turn your head back toward the camera.<br />
* One hand up and one hand down, or clasp them together.<br />
* Hands and fingers curved, palms downward. <br />
* If standing, feet in third, fourth, or fifth position.<br />
* If sitting, cross your ankles or your knees, with camera-side foot on top.<br />
* White space around the waist!<br />
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One thing I left out of this analysis was trained gowns. There are a surprising number of illustrations of gowns with trains, and how Regency-period women draped them, carried them, and even pinned them. Sometimes they look strange to us, particularly in fashion plates drawn with less skill; but there's some interesting, helpful things there. At least to anyone who wears a trained Regency gown. Would anyone be interested in such an analysis?<br />
<br />Scene in the Pasthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00152966266473265321noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1692455426705092161.post-25953672265139978872013-03-13T10:51:00.000-05:002013-03-13T10:59:05.600-05:00Historical Sew Fortnightly #5: Peasants & Pioneers: 1860 Chemise Trimmed with Wavy Braid<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://thedreamstress.com/the-historical-sew-fortnightly/"><img border="0" src="http://thedreamstress.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/HSFsm.jpg" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8545634189/" title="DSC06417 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06417" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8375/8545634189_024f2b96f2_z.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8545633741/" title="DSC06416 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"></a></div>
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This chemise began as a UFO from December. My whole family has been Civil War reenactors since the mid-1990s, so I made one of my new sisters-in-law some underthings to jump-start her wardrobe. Her birthday and Christmas are two days apart, so it worked out well to give a set. I passed on a corset that no longer fit me (newly washed, dyed, and flossed), and made a chemise and petticoat. Both garments were simple, and unadorned except for the "wavy braid."<br />
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Wavy braid was the mid-19th-century term for what we call rickrack. It was used on some children's clothing, as well as on adult underthings and "linens" (collars, cuffs, and undersleeves). Unlike dresses and outerwear, underthings were subjected to relatively frequent and tough laundering, involving bleach and boiling. Hence underthings tended to be fairly plain, or trimmed with sturdy things like self-fabric tucks and broderie anglaise. Wavy braid is also an option. It could be worked into lace-like designs, used as an insertion, or used as a pointed edging. (Read more about wavy braid <a href="http://thesewingacademy.org/index.php?topic=179.0">here</a> and other places on The Sewing Academy.)<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8545638501/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="DSC06428 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06428" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8517/8545638501_f8e6c1f40d_z.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One tiny shoulder seam, with felled seams and trim.</td></tr>
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Some time ago, I commissioned an 1860s petticoat from Sarah Engelke, aka <a href="http://msmcknittington.dreamwidth.org/">MsMcknittington</a>. She did an AMAZING job! Something like 20 tucks (I hate tucks, mostly because I'm lousy at them) in two sizes, hand gathered, and edged with wavy braid. I wore it at the DFWCG Costumers' Lost Weekend last summer, where I ended up showing it off when trying to explain my cage crinoline. ;) It's a lovely petticoat, and I definitely want more undies that match.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/festiveattyre/7688405364/" title="DSC00296 by festive attyre, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC00296" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8428/7688405364_9ba81e7ec4_z.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
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I still had a lot of wavy braid left. I couldn't spend too much time on the undies for my sister-in-law, but the wavy braid with a fast, accurate, and cute way to trim them. I fell for my own design, and went ahead and cut out a duplicate chemise for myself. I had visions of working them in assembly line, but got in a crunch and didn't far past the cutting on mine.<br />
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After Christmas, the Historical Sew Fortnightly occurred, and I was swept into more urgent projects. I was at semi loose ends for Challenge #5, but the forlorn pile of pieces was calling and I can really use it at Gettysburg.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8545633741/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="DSC06416 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06416" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8532/8545633741_563e7e75b4_z.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I am a perennial one-shoulder-chemise-wearer. I have no idea why.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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This chemise is a simple design with no separate sleeve. It's more
typical of post-1865 years, but the pattern was taken from an original
with an 1850s date. It is a simple flared shape with no gores or
gussets. The yoke is a straight band with no shaping. The placket is a
strap with a curved end, set in a slash in the front of the chemise.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8545636811/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="DSC06424 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06424" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8094/8545636811_1470320e32_z.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I have no idea why my stitching ended up so crazy. At least it's secure!</td></tr>
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The
seams are flat-felled to the outside to minimize any rubbing against the skin, and the wavy braid is applied as a point edging, sandwiched in the yoke, the plackets, and sleeve facings.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8546735730/" title="DSC06427 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06427" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8090/8546735730_46a82e0ca5_z.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a> </div>
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The fullness is controlled with stroked gathers. Stroked gathers are run by hand as in regular hand gathering, but when the threads are pulled up, each tiny gather/pleat is sewn individually to the band.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8546735334/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="DSC06426 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06426" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8506/8546735334_4fa25de443_z.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Why put a placket in a chemise? When wearing a low-necked gown, I can undo a few buttons and have a bigger neckline. Huzzah, no chemise peek!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<i><b>The Challenge: </b></i>HSF #5, Peasants and Pioneers<br />
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<b><i>Fabric: </i></b>Pimatex brand pima cotton; I get mine from <a href="http://www.dharmatrading.com/html/eng/3634-AA.shtml?lnav=fabric_cotton.html">Dharma Trading</a>. <a href="http://thesewingacademy.org/index.php?topic=1854.0">Recommended here</a>,
among other places. It closely resembles the material used for many
mid-century chemises, drawers, and petticoats. It is tightly-woven with a
crisp hand, even after being washed, and takes liquid starch extremely
well.<br />
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<b><i>Pattern:</i></b><i> </i><b> </b>1850s chemise pattern diagram, from Hunnisett's <i>Period Costume for Stage and Screen,</i> taken from an original.<br />
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<b><i>Year: </i></b> I will be wearing it in 1861-1865 settings, but
it's appropriate for any time after the initial date for a decade or
two. Chemise designs do not change quickly.<br />
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<i><b>Notions: </b></i>100% cotton wavy braid (rickrack). White china buttons with a shiny finish.<br />
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<i><b>How historically accurate is it? </b></i>Nearly 100%. All period and appropriate materials and techniques.
Sewing machines were widely used in the period, particularly for
visible sewing, and I adjusted the stitch length to be much shorter than modern usage.<br />
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<i><b>Hours to complete: </b></i>12-15 hours. Construction was easy, and even the stroked gathers did not take long. (Of course, I also made them pretty big.) And I had already puzzled over doing the placket on my sister-in-law's chemise, so that problem was already solved.<br />
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<b><i>First worn: </i></b>Just for the pictures. (It's a bit on the long side!)<br />
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<i><b>Total cost: </b></i>I bought 20 yards of Pimatex years ago, intending it for undies; this used maybe $10's worth. The wavy braid is about 4 years old; I used about 50¢'s worth. 4 buttons maybe 5¢ apiece. (I bought a pound of assorted white china buttons on ebay 10 years ago and have barely made a dent. Let me know if you need some!) Call it $10.70 altogether.<br />
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But what makes this chemise appropriate for the challenge?The text specifies:<br />
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<blockquote class="tr_bq">
As wonderful as making pretty, pretty princess dresses is, the vast
majority of people have always been poor commoners, whether they were
peasants working the land, servants in big houses, or (later), pioneers
carving their own space in new lands. This fortnight let's make
something that celebrates the common man.</blockquote>
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This chemise isn't a peasant or pioneer garment per se. That is, it would be appropriate for, oh, 75% of the adult female population of the United States. The fabric is pretty much perfect, the sewing is a mixture of hand and machine, and the buttons and trim are widely available. That said, it does shade more toward the <i>economic-conscious</i> end of the spectrum instead of the <i>fashion-conscious</i> end. Why?<br />
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(1) Style. This is a very simple style of chemise, with no separate sleeve, a simple band for a yoke, and a simple placket. It's serviceable and pretty, but nothing fancy.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8545634601/" title="DSC06418 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06418" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8099/8545634601_a43ea15f42_z.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a> </div>
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(2) Work-saving. The simplicity of cut and lack of time-intensive styling means it's practical as a home-made garment for a women with a lot of other work to do, or as a style produced for retail. Many chemises (and chemise patterns in the fashion magazines) have a lot of tucks and hand-done embroidery. Those things take time. I did stroked gathers, but my gathers were large instead of miniscule.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8546734824/" title="DSC06425 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06425" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8525/8546734824_cba23eaa8b_z.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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(3) Cheap. The only supplies this chemise takes are fabric, a few buttons, and less than two yards of wavy braid. A more elaborate chemise could have expensive broderie anglaise applied on it, in a more elaborate style requiring more inches of trim.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8545635045/" title="DSC06419 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06419" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8373/8545635045_5f2c930a1d_z.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
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(4) Piecing. Did you see one of the places this chemise was pieced? It's actually pieced in two places. One is on the inside of the yoke, but the other is right down the center back. Piecing is definitely a technique used by thrifty seamstresses throughout history.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8546736448/" title="DSC06429 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06429" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8227/8546736448_2698f502c4_z.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a> </div>
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The first place I pieced is adding a center back seam instead of cutting it on the fold. Pimatex is wide enough for one and a half chemise bodies, so I cut out three fronts/backs and two halves. Two of the solid pieces went for my sister-in-law's chemise, so mine is one piece in front and two in back.<br />
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The other place I pieced is at the very end of one of the yoke bands. One of my strips was 5" short, Instead of cutting a whole new piece, I added on just enough to work, and used that strip as the inside facing. It doesn't show and doesn't even feel.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8545639633/" title="DSC06431 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06431" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8251/8545639633_430c304b67_z.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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So that's it another challenge for the books! And yay for getting my post up earlier!Scene in the Pasthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00152966266473265321noreply@blogger.com17tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1692455426705092161.post-40997018494456194912013-03-10T21:01:00.005-05:002013-03-13T17:23:19.274-05:00Historical Sew Fortnightly #4: Embellishment: Fringe on Red Wool Regency Gown<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://thedreamstress.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/HSFsm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://thedreamstress.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/HSFsm.jpg" /></a></div>
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My last two challenges (UFO and Under It All) were pretty simple projects, because my goal was to trim the Paisley Pixie gown to meet the Embellish challenge. It was a work-intensive project; I started making muslins <a href="http://sceneinthepast.blogspot.com/2013/01/a-new-project.html">back in the middle of January.</a> By the time I got all the fringe on, the gown was 95% done. It's not all done yet, because I had to move on to challenge #5, but the embellishment was finished two weeks ago. (Once again I leave posting my entry until the last few hours!)<br />
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My embellishment of choice was <b>Fringe.</b> Self-fringe, made from the wool of the gown. Fringe is very easy to make, if somewhat time-consuming and tedious. I determined how much fringe I needed and ripped strips of wool that were the required widths, plus 1/2" seam allowance.<br />
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To make the fringe, all you do is unravel it, one long thread at a time. The first few long threads are easy; they come right off. After that, it's best to use a pin to pick out an end, then gently work the thread loose by pulling. I like to "gather" the strip on the thread, especially since wool is not a very strong fiber. Fringe making is only difficult if you use too much force and break the thread a lot.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8541332139/" title="DSC06249 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06249" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8248/8541332139_bef9f7d4bb_z.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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The plan was to have two rows of fringe on the skirt, and then narrower fringe in several places on the sleeves. I decided on 1 1/2" fringe for the skirt and 3/4" fringe for the sleeves, so my strips were 2" wide and 1 1/4" wide respectively. Where possible I used selvedge edges on the skirt fringe. I wasn't sure how I wanted to apply the fringe, but I thought selvedges might come in useful.<br />
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I found it easiest to apply the fringe by pinning the skirt down to my cutting table, pinning the fringe to it, and sewing right there.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8542430888/" title="DSC06367 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06367" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8252/8542430888_87d0cee1c6_z.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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The hem edge fringe went on first. I was glad of the selvedges here; they cover the narrow skirt hem and there are no raw edges.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8541333357/" title="DSC06369 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06369" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8383/8541333357_fb58e96bd9_z.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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Next I did the second row. I wanted it to appear invisibly, without a bulky outside header. I was also concerned that it would flip up if I tried to press under the seam allowance. So instead I pressed a 5/8" tuck on the <i>inside</i> of the skirt. The tuck was ironed upward. I then encased the seam allowance of the fringe in the tuck and sewed it closed. It took two rows of stitching, but the result looks perfect. It was hard to photograph, but the solid red between 22 and 25 is the underside/inside of the reverse tuck.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8541334183/" title="DSC06372 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06372" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8511/8541334183_8eb851f426_z.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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Looks pretty good!<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8542435202/" title="DSC06379 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06379" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8375/8542435202_70c195e183_z.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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Fringe on! I like it! It looks just like <a href="http://media-cache-ec2.pinterest.com/upload/228135537345777342_EpNITGNl_c.jpg">the inspiration.</a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8541334985/" title="DSC06374 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06374" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8249/8541334985_5c0ffdd42e_z.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a><br />
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And from the back. There's a lot of fabric there.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8542435624/" title="DSC06380 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06380" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8246/8542435624_eab20876b6_z.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a><br />
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I didn't take details pictures of the sleeve fringe application. Each was totally different, because they were in totally different places. The first, the simplest, was at the cuff edge of the detachable long sleeves. I folded up the seam allowance on the cuff and sandwiched the fringe between the sleeve and a straight binding. It ended up being a bit heavier than I wanted, but it works.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8541336417/" title="DSC06378 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06378" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8242/8541336417_d269c91956_z.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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The second fringe application was on the wrist band. This is the type of Regency sleeve that's cut extra long, so it falls over the hand, and is snugged in at the wrist by a wrap-around band. It was easy to put a strip of fringe sandwiched in the band.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8542429554/" title="DSC06247 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06247" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8520/8542429554_22c22074e2_z.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a><br />
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The third set of sleeve fringe was a lot trickier. The short sleeves I'd ended up with didn't have a real cuff, just an edge. There was no place to hide the seam allowance of the fringe. I accidentally discovered that the fringe was short and stiff enough to stand up instead of drooping, so instead of hanging down, it is mounted upward.<br />
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I finished the sleeves with a narrow double-fold binding that hides all the seam allowances.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8541337551/" title="DSC06381 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06381" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8528/8541337551_4da39b1506_z.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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I'll have more detail of the dress itself later, including the sleeves, but this is a very clear shot of fringe, binding, and one of the pleat patterns. This is two sets of knife pleats, pointing inward. I was afraid the fringe would cover it, but now I love this look.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8542434448/" title="DSC06377 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06377" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8239/8542434448_abe0bd3dc2_z.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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<i><b>The Challenge: </b></i>HSF #4, Embellishment<br />
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<b><i>Fabric: </i></b>Dark red wool tricotine from FFC<br />
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<b><i>Pattern:</i></b><i> </i><b><i> </i></b>Bodice based on the drop-front gown from <i>Patterns of Fashion.</i> Upper sleeve initially based on the sleeve from the same, but modified out of recognition. Lower sleeve and skirt from Hunnisett's <i>Period Costume for Stage and Screen.</i><br />
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<b><i>Year: </i></b> Circa 1813.<br />
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<i><b>Notions: </b></i>There will be buttons (white china) to button in the long sleeves, and red wool covered buttons on the wrists, but that's not for the embellishment.<br />
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<i><b>How historically accurate is it? </b></i>The fringe is totally accurate. For the rest, about 90%. Primary (invisible) construction stitching is by machine, but everything else is by hand.<br />
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<i><b>Hours to complete: </b></i> Just making the fringe took probably 15-20 hours, counting the assistance of a couple of friends a few times (Thanks, Cima and Rebekah!). I was working on it off and on for a good month. Fringe application was all by hand as well. Maybe 10 hours? Aside from that, the gown including pattern making was maybe another 40. These are ballpark figures, but it seriously took a long time. I know I've got another 2-5 hours left.<br />
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<b><i>First worn: </i></b>Just for pictures so far; it will go "live" for the picnic on the 23rd, though.<br />
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<i><b>Total cost: </b></i>I didn't buy anything for this dress per se, so technically nothing. But actually about $35, for the wool. I got the wool for another project, and way over-bought because I knew I would use it for something historical and awesome.Scene in the Pasthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00152966266473265321noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1692455426705092161.post-22221579312381153032013-02-28T06:00:00.000-06:002013-03-11T10:44:55.115-05:00Safari at the ZooOn Saturday I went to a DFWCG event, Safari at the Zoo. I drive past the Fort Worth Zoo all the time, but haven't ever been to my knowledge. So this was my first excursion! And I made it in style. (All pictures courtesy of Jennifer Thompson. She takes the best pictures!)<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/festiveattyre/8504618778/" title="DSC06551 by festive attyre, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06551" height="640" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8377/8504618778_457381dae3_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
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Everyone else in our small group went the perceived traditional safari route, with pith helmets and shades of brown or khaki. (Although one lady did a multi-colored corset and peacock bustle!)<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/festiveattyre/8504629956/" title="DSC06671 by festive attyre, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06671" height="426" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8514/8504629956_8dbd1a8b44_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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I love pith helmets, and actually have two of them, which I've used for costumes in the past. And for working around the yard, too. They work!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8132817078/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="DSC05707 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC05707" height="480" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8189/8132817078_c8cf5d58d3_z.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Trying to remove a stump, with my cousin's help. After several hours we resorted to the towing power of my neighbor's pickup truck. ;)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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I got a major haircut (over 8") a few weeks ago, and for the first time my hair is short enough to do real 1940s curls. I love how they look with the hat. The day of the safari was the third day after my first all-pincurl set. Although it had fallen out a lot, I still like how it looks.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/festiveattyre/8504605452/" title="DSC06592 by festive attyre, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06592" height="480" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8368/8504605452_4588948022_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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This blue felt Western hat, probably from the 1940s, is one of my
very favorite vintage hats, and I was dying to style it in a
vintage-style adventurer outfit with my new hair. Besides, any wide-brimmed vintage hat looks like Indiana Jones, and I'm an Indy fangirl from waaaaay back. ;)<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/festiveattyre/8504616578/" title="DSC06539 by festive attyre, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06539" height="640" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8530/8504616578_e2c81f5db9_z.jpg" width="426" /></a><br />
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I did a safari outfit for Halloween a few years ago, using some jodhpurs in won on ebay, one of my pitch helmets, ebay boots, and a me-made 40s blouse. Saturday was shaping up to be a fairly chilly day, though, and I don't have adventure-y outerwear yet. I checked for some inspiration and found that breeches/jodhpurs were often worn with shirt and tie and pullover sweater, <i>tucked in</i>.<br />
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<div style="line-height: 0px; padding-bottom: 2px;">
<a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537346062517/" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="572" src="http://media-cache-ec4.pinterest.com/550x/f9/b0/79/f9b07950d6c6907d2fb956b1ce362ac4.jpg" width="316" /></a></div>
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<div style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px;">
Source: <a href="http://www.photodetective.co.uk/WLA2.html" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;">photodetective.co.uk</a> via <a href="http://pinterest.com/SceneInThePast/" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Ginger - Scene in the Past</a> on <a href="http://pinterest.com/" style="color: #76838b; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Pinterest</a></div>
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<div style="line-height: 0px; padding-bottom: 2px;">
<a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537346062520/" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="782" src="http://media-cache-ec5.pinterest.com/550x/77/77/a3/7777a3fc0472164f163100dad0a2e81a.jpg" width="500" /></a></div>
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<div style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px;">
Source: <a href="http://www.thesartorialist.com/photos/with-the-boys-vintage-photo-contest/" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;">thesartorialist.com</a> via <a href="http://pinterest.com/SceneInThePast/" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Ginger - Scene in the Past</a> on <a href="http://pinterest.com/" style="color: #76838b; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Pinterest</a></div>
</div>
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Even Amelia Earhart, whose relaxed style didn't usually include a knotted tie, tucked in her pullover.<br />
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<div style="line-height: 0px; padding-bottom: 2px;">
<a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537346062518/" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://media-cache-ec4.pinterest.com/550x/09/88/d7/0988d77742cbe20bc784c846e61a90da.jpg" width="500" /></a></div>
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<div style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px;">
Source: <a href="http://www.collegefashion.net/inspiration/a-history-of-style-fashion-inspired-by-amelia-earhart/" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;">collegefashion.net</a> via <a href="http://pinterest.com/SceneInThePast/" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Ginger - Scene in the Past</a> on <a href="http://pinterest.com/" style="color: #76838b; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Pinterest</a></div>
</div>
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The final outfit:<br />
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Green jodhpurs: ebay, vintage (1940s?), cavalry twill (possibly cotton), possibly homemade<br />
White long sleeve shirt: Kohl's, I think Apt. 9, a few years ago<br />
Brown pullover: Old Navy, lambswool, a few years ago<br />
Navy tie: a hand-me-down from my youngest brother<br />
Brown belt: appropriated from my father<br />
Brown boots: ebay, Nine West, probably 1990s<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/festiveattyre/8503509835/" title="DSC06552 by festive attyre, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06552" height="640" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8087/8503509835_9781e98ec5_z.jpg" width="426" /></a><br />
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The difference between jodhpurs and breeches is that jodhpurs are ankle length, worn over short boots, and held down with a stirrup strap. Breeches fit to below the knee, and tall boots are worn over them. Mine are jodhpurs, but I am significantly taller than most 1940s women and they are ridiculously short. So I wear them as breeches! I plan to take a pattern from them and make some that fit better, though. They're perfect in the waist and hips, but need 6-8" more length in thighs and calves. The knees on these have to pull up too far, so the fullness is out of proportion and my knees are very tight. Anyone have a source for cavalry twill??<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/festiveattyre/8503520897/" title="DSC06673 by festive attyre, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06673" height="640" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8513/8503520897_e143b9df45_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
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My brother gave me the tie, and a couple others, when he was cleaning out his clothes a few years ago. They're little boy ties, one step up from the clip-on kind, but too small for a large teenager. They're perfect on me for tucking into a pullover or waistcoat. It was surprisingly easy to learn how to tie a four-in-hand knot. I really liked how the outfit came out, and I think that the tie in particular is one element that makes it look more real.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/festiveattyre/8503509097/" title="DSC06549 by festive attyre, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06549" height="640" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8248/8503509097_5af5e2427e_z.jpg" width="426" /></a> <br />
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I don't remember how long ago I got the belt from my father. It's reversible, black on the other side with a lot of paint splatters. I really like it because it's very flexible and long enough to loop the end. My jodhpurs don't actually have belt loops, but the waist is high enough that the belt looked good and didn't go anywhere.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/festiveattyre/8504617976/" title="DSC06548 by festive attyre, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06548" height="640" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8383/8504617976_0a694658af_z.jpg" width="426" /></a><br />
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The only thing I would have added was gloves. The sun was bright and we weren't uncomfortable, but my hands were cold! Ah, well, I can't think of everything. It was a lovely day at the zoo. The company was great, both the ladies and Jen's little boy. I grew up with three younger brothers, so it's fun to play with him. A great idea for an outing!<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/festiveattyre/8503498119/" title="DSC06609 by festive attyre, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06609" height="480" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8241/8503498119_5ea3659cb5_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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<br />Scene in the Pasthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00152966266473265321noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1692455426705092161.post-36053152020817001142013-02-25T13:00:00.000-06:002013-03-11T10:45:32.211-05:00Historical Sew Fortnightly #3: Under It AllI've been seeing a flurry of HSF #4 posts, which reminds me that this is the last day I can post about my HSF #3 entry. You do all realize that while the <i>challenge</i> needs to be done by the deadline, the <i>post </i>doesn't need to be written for up to another fortnight? It's a good thing for people like me who are working up to the literal last minute and don't have time to make a post as well!<br />
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<b>Under It All: Eighteenth Century Pockets</b><br />
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In establishing<b> </b>my ambitious sewing plan for 2013, I realized that for several years I have been neglecting some important non-essentials. <i>Essentials</i> are, obviously, gowns and the "hard" underpinnings necessary to give me and the gowns their proper shape. Stays and hoops; and for me, usually shoes. <i>Accessories</i> are non-essentials that add to the look of the outfit, and may or may not serve a functional purpose. <i>Important non-essentials</i>, though, is a tricky in-between category that includes loads of things not strictly necessary, but it's awkward to get along without them. They can be either unseen or outside, too.<br />
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One of my important non-essential needs is a way to Carry All The Things. At Costume College last year I found myself using the same little tapestry reticule with half of my outfits, including Roman and Maid Marian. I simply didn't think it through, and that was my only option. For my pink wool 1780s I at least had a pocket, but that was very small. It even developed a hole!<br />
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So like HSF #2 for me, HSF #3 was another easy, but important, challenge. Not only did I replace my little holey pocket, but I made two big ones!<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8467177666/" title="DSC06228 cropped by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06228 cropped" height="640" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8098/8467177666_0d15e25387_z.jpg" width="313" /></a></div>
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I didn't want any more trouble with too-small pockets, so these are on the larger side of extant examples. I cut them at 18" long, if I recall correctly.<br />
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Everything came from my stash, too. The front fabric is printed cotton left over from my first 18th century dress. It's not strictly accurate, if for nothing more than subtle opalescent accents. It's very pretty, though, and I have a yard of it left. The rest of the fabric - front facings and backs - is more pale green linen. I have a petticoat and stays made from it, with still more left.<br />
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The binding is navy cotton twill tape, and the ties are gray ditto. Like the pale blue tape I used on my other 18th cent. underpinnings, these also are from Costume College.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8466081325/" title="DSC06230 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06230" height="480" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8088/8466081325_748fc77d40_z.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Since my materials aren't completely accurate, I didn't take time away from HSF #4 to hand sew these pockets. I did all I could on the machine, including sewing on one side of the binding. Everything visible is by hand, however.<br />
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<i><b>The Challenge: </b></i>HSF #3, Under It All<br />
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<b><i>Fabric: </i></b>Indienne cotton print in blue and green with opalescence, on white. Green medium-weight linen. Navy cotton twill tape, 1" wide. Gray cotton twill tape, 1/2" wide.<br />
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<b><i>Pattern:</i></b><i> </i><b><i> </i></b>An amalgam of the diagrams from <i>Costume Close-Up</i> and <i>Fitting and Proper</i><a href="http://www.amazon.com/18th-Century-Embroidery-Techniques-Marsh/dp/1861088086/ref=sr_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1359407862&sr=1-2&keywords=18th+century+embroidery+techniques"><i></i></a><br />
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<b><i>Year: </i></b> Most of the 18th century.<br />
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<i><b>Notions: </b></i>None<br />
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<i><b>How historically accurate is it? </b></i>The cotton print isn't perfect, I didn't bother with cotton thread, I machine-sewed where I could, and the tape ought to be linen. But the shape and construction is accurate.<br />
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<i><b>Hours to complete: </b></i> Maybe 4, including waffling over design and size.<br />
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<b><i>First worn: </i></b>Just for pictures.<br />
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<i><b>Total cost: </b></i>None; everything came from the stash.<br />
<br />Scene in the Pasthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00152966266473265321noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1692455426705092161.post-46759090318517840502013-01-28T19:32:00.000-06:002013-03-11T10:45:59.775-05:00Historical Sew Fortnightly #2: UFO<b>Un-Finished Object: Ruffled 1780s Handkerchief</b><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8421401286/" title="DSC06139 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06139" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8330/8421401286_365f454f0f.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
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I can't help feeling a little bit like I punted for this challenge. My UFO was already so close to being finished, so it took just a little bit of time. But that's part of my "master plan" for getting bunches of stuff done before June.<br />
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<b> </b>It started last summer, when I decided to make a 1780s gown out of pink wool. One of the things that stood out to me about 1780s styles was the big, fluffy, often frilled handkerchiefs worn over the gowns, covering the very low necklines. I didn't actually finish the gown until the Wednesday before Costume College, however, so my plans for a foofy handkerchief weren't complete. Instead, I wore the cut, but completely un-ruffled and un-hemmed, handkerchief.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8424651189/" title="DSC_0488 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC_0488" height="500" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8077/8424651189_c799251004.jpg" width="333" /></a><br />
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The fabric is marvelous stuff, a "barred" cotton organdy I got from the <a href="http://stores.ebay.com/Pure-Silk-Fabrics">Pure Silks ebay store</a> some years ago. Even after washing it, it remains crisp, as if starched. I used it for my first (and current only) 18th century cap.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8424649993/" title="DSC_0482 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC_0482" height="500" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8331/8424649993_e1c4d50aac.jpg" width="333" /></a> <br />
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The shape is a regular right triangle approximately 18" a side, with a 3" slit cut in the hypotenuse for it to fold around the neck more gracefully, as in <a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537345054680/">this example.</a><br />
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The next chapter in the Handkerchief Saga opens with my push to finish lots of things for the Georgian Picnic in November. It had bottom priority because it <i>was</i> wearable (unlike the bum pad or petticoats), and I really wanted to trim the dress. I ended up with barely enough time to attach the ruffle. My specific inspiration for the ruffle was this handkerchief ("fichu") from the Metropolitan Museum of Art:<br />
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<div style="line-height: 0px; padding-bottom: 2px;">
<a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537345219485/" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="395" src="http://media-cache-ec2.pinterest.com/upload/186969822001479655_7eZjEprJ_c.jpg" width="600" /></a></div>
<div style="float: left; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px;">
<div style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px;">
Source: <a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/80052122" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;">metmuseum.org</a> via <a href="http://pinterest.com/SceneInThePast/" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Scene in the Past</a> on <a href="http://pinterest.com/" style="color: #76838b; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Pinterest</a></div>
</div>
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I started by working the ruffle itself, because I knew that would take
the longest. I think I cut it twice as long as the two sides of the
handkerchief, and 1.25" wide finished. I love the organdy so much! Although loosely woven, it's crisp enough to make rolled hemming very easy. I made extra-small hems on the ruffles, mostly just to see if I could. The big squares in the organdy are about 1/4", so the hem is a little more than 1/16".<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8421405960/" title="DSC06143 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06143" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8369/8421405960_b60f21cdcf.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
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The edges of the handkerchief also had to be hemmed first. Then the ruffle was drawn up with whipped gathers and sewn to the finished edge.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8420307885/" title="DSC06142 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06142" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8094/8420307885_75733db917.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
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I still barely finished before the picnic. The evening before, I sang in a concert at my church. And I was backstage stitching for dear life the whole time I wasn't performing! I even had expert help from friend and fellow singer Kathy, who finished hemming the outside edges of the handkerchief while I was sewing the gathers.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8420296261/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="DSC05815 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC05815" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8501/8420296261_cf0ee60bce.jpg" width="500" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Working separately: Handkerchief on left, ruffle on right.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8420297601/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="DSC05818 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC05818" height="500" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8082/8420297601_dd4686d016.jpg" width="375" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Working together: Attaching the ruffle, and nearly done hemming the handkerchief.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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The raw inside edges of the handkerchief were completely hidden when I wore it. I was surprised by how differently it lay with the ruffle on it, but I liked the look.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8424655589/" title="DSC05851 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC05851" height="500" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8367/8424655589_177e5a1dd6.jpg" width="375" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8424653439/" title="DSC05849 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC05849" height="500" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8094/8424653439_0ed01877b5.jpg" width="375" /></a><br />
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But still, those raw edges bothered me. Instead of putting it away, the handkerchief has been haunting my cutting table for the months since the picnic. So the UFO challenge was perfect for getting it done.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8420299657/" title="DSC05826 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC05826" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8043/8420299657_53a8d325e9.jpg" width="500" /></a> <br />
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<i><b>Just the Facts, Ma'am:</b></i><br />
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<i><b>The Challenge: </b></i>HSF #2, UFO<br />
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<b><i>Fabric: </i></b>White cotton woven 1/4" windowpane organdy<br />
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<b><i>Pattern:</i></b><i> </i><b> </b>Roughly from the pin above, from <a href="http://www.amazon.com/18th-Century-Embroidery-Techniques-Marsh/dp/1861088086/ref=sr_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1359407862&sr=1-2&keywords=18th+century+embroidery+techniques"><i>18th Century Embroidery Techniques</i></a><br />
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<b><i>Year: </i></b> 1780s into 1790s<br />
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<i><b>Notions: </b></i>None<br />
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<i><b>How historically accurate is it? </b></i>It would be more commonly made of linen instead of cotton. Other than that, and the content of the thread (lightweight Coats & Clark), it's as accurate as I know how.<br />
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<i><b>Hours to complete: </b></i>To complete the UFO, 2 hours at most. Before then, maybe 8.<br />
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<b><i>First worn: </i></b>Unfinished 1: August 2012, Costume College. Unfinished 2: November 2012, DFWCG Georgian Picnic. Completed: Not yet!<br />
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<i><b>Total cost: </b></i>Pennies for the little bit of thread. Maybe $2 for the fabric, originally.<br />
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<i><b><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8420300869/" title="DSC05827 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC05827" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8369/8420300869_e24ae474a3.jpg" width="500" /></a></b></i>Scene in the Pasthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00152966266473265321noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1692455426705092161.post-67917996049098027582013-01-28T06:00:00.000-06:002013-03-11T10:46:18.550-05:0018th Century UnderpinningsI want to show you some of the undies I made last year, in preparation for the DFWCG Georgian Picnic. I'd made a pink wool gown for Costume College in the summer. I loved it, but it was barely finished in time. I wanted to wear it to the picnic, but with lots more trim and accessories - and underthings.<br />
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<b>Bum Pad</b> <br />
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Funny name! But it's period. The 1770s and 1780s saw the last big hurrah of the wide side hoops, and the appearance of the big rear. My pink wool gown is more 1780s than 1770s, so I desperately needed some kind of skirt support. I tried to make one in the summer before Costume College, but it was rather terrible. It didn't have enough waist shaping, so it was like trying to wrap a flat, rectangular pillow around very curved hips. Not flattering, even by 1780s standards. I ended up borrowing one from Lauren for the weekend, but I needed my own.<br />
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I studied the posts by <a href="http://blog.historicalfashions.com/2012/09/18th-century-undergarments-for-rivals_21.html">Adventures of a Costumer</a> and <a href="http://rococoatelier.blogspot.com/2012/09/underwear-for-1770s-and-1780s.html">Rococo Atelier</a> extensively, and took apart my first attempt. Second try: success!<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8165803180/" title="DSC05748 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC05748" height="500" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7116/8165803180_5a4b748769.jpg" width="375" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8165771577/" title="DSC05745 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC05745" height="500" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7275/8165771577_0fb2a84da5.jpg" width="375" /></a><br />
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The waist shape is very curved, and fits nearly around my waist. The waist binding is blue twill tape I got from the trim lady at Costume College in 2011. It's really too wide at 1.5", but it's pretty. :) The ties are ordinary 1/2" white tape.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8165803936/" title="DSC05751 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC05751" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8350/8165803936_99f8c22d00.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
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I pieced the original shapes I'd cut. The piecing seams are visible at the side front, where I added more to wrap around my waist.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8165808936/" title="DSC05768 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC05768" height="375" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7129/8165808936_a37c46f92b.jpg" width="500" /></a> <br />
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The fabric is a cotton cambric I bought from Pure Silks' ebay store. It's semi-sheer and <b>incredibly</b> stiff, even after being washed and dried. Like Rococo Atelier, I added a ruffle to soften the outline. The ruffle is a selvedge edge of the cambric and stands up on its own.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8165777747/" title="DSC05769 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC05769" height="500" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7119/8165777747_25e1ca7213.jpg" width="375" /></a><br />
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When I first finished the pad, I squirted it with water to get the blue marker out and set it on the windowsill to dry in the wind.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8165772837/" title="DSC05752 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC05752" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8205/8165772837_c5c3578095.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
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After 30 seconds I reconsidered, and fastened one tie to my sewing machine chair. A wise precaution, because when I thought to look 30 minutes later...<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8165804536/" title="DSC05753 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC05753" height="375" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7252/8165804536_f780d0385c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
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Sometimes I'm smart! (But who knows what the neighbors thought.)<br />
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<b>Matelasse Petticoat</b><br />
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Another common 18th century skirt support is the quilted petticoat. I haven't been much interested in quilted petticoats. Texas is super warm most of the time, and quilting a petticoat is very time-intensive. But an alternative is matelasse, a fabric developed in the period to mimic the look of expensive quilted fabric. At the time it was called Marseilles or marcella cloth; see more information <a href="http://ladysrepositorymuseum.blogspot.com/2009/04/marseilles-quilted-petticoats-marcella.html">here at The Lady's Repository Museum</a>.<br />
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Many historical textiles are no longer made. Matelasse is an exception, though not as garment fabric. It is used primarily for bedding. It is usually cotton or cotton blend, and in limited colors. I do not know how closely modern matelasse corresponds to marcella cloth, but for many costumers it is a reasonable substitute for hand-quilted material.<br />
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On a whim, coinciding with a big sale at Joann's, I bought enough off-white matelasse to make a short-ish petticoat.<br />
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I used the same blue twill tape for the bands and ties. The extra width did made the waist binding easier; matelasse is <i>heavy.</i><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8165776091/" title="DSC05763 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC05763" height="500" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7261/8165776091_02b5564929.jpg" width="375" /></a><br />
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I used the Threaded Bliss/Fashionable Frolick <a href="http://fashionablefrolick.blogspot.com/2011/04/threaded-bliss-tutorial.html">petticoat tutorial </a>to guide my construction. Because the matelasse is so heavy, I made the sides barely overlap. I also made the center front box pleat very wide, to keep the front as flat as possible. To get the right 1780s look, the front should be flat with most fullness in the back.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8165807810/" title="DSC05764 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC05764" height="375" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7271/8165807810_29751788e3.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
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The design on the off-white matelasse is particularly elegant. I really like it.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8165808412/" title="DSC05766 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC05766" height="500" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7112/8165808412_70d028cc59.jpg" width="375" /></a><br />
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The one tweak I need to do is shorten the center back. I deliberately made it longer than the front, to allow for the bum pad, but I added too much. A significant dip is clearly visible when I wear it.<br />
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<b>Sheer Petticoat</b><br />
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I wore a sheer petticoat over my green one under the pink wool at Costume College. It was a work in process: totally unhemmed and lacking a flounce.The material is similar to period "muslin," probably called voile today. It is cotton, sheer (you can read text through it easily), and very, very limp. I suspect that period muslins weren't quite this limp. I was in a hurry, so instead of hemming it I just pinked the edge. <br />
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I learned that weekend that (1) it was too long, and (2) a pinked hem wasn't sufficient for the muslin. There was a lot of raveling.<b> </b>A stiffer fabric like organdy or cambric wouldn't have raveled.<br />
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When I got back to the petticoat, first I re-cut the hem, then did a narrow rolled hem. It took a while, and was fairly tedious, but it looks nice now. And I won't be getting threads caught in my shoe buckles. ;) Then I finished the flounce. The flounce is about 12" deep, with a pinked top edge and a dagged (pointed) hem also cut with pinking shears. The picture is out of focus - the pinking is frayed, but not that badly. The line is the rolled hem of the petticoat underneath.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8165807270/" title="DSC05762 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC05762" height="375" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7255/8165807270_fed6faefd2.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
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The flounce is not very full, so I pleated it before setting it on the skirt. My friend Jordi sent me a sewing bird last fall. This was the first project I used it on. It worked wonderfully!<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8165773385/" title="DSC05754 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC05754" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8350/8165773385_6d1b5377d4.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
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The completed petticoat. I did <i>not</i> use blue ties on this one. ;)<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8165806774/" title="DSC05760 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC05760" height="500" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8198/8165806774_0a383d4d33.jpg" width="375" /></a><br />
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I also did some work on the pink dress itself. That's for another post!<br />
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<br />Scene in the Pasthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00152966266473265321noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1692455426705092161.post-50949985862480811162013-01-25T12:56:00.006-06:002013-03-11T10:46:48.471-05:00A New ProjectI've finished the UFO for the next Historical Sew Fortnightly challenge. The post for that will be coming soon; I got thrown off my posting schedule early this week. ;) In the meantime, here's the unveiling of a project I've been plotting for months!<br />
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Last fall, the DFWCG was planning to do a Regency fairy-themed tea party. The tea party plans fell through, so the event was re-cast as the Picnic with the Pixies, not specifically Regency. But I was already in love with my idea. Last week I received the one critical piece that will make it work, so finally, the unveiling of...
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</b><span style="font-size: larger;"><b> </b></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: larger;"><b>The Paisley Pixie!</b></span><br />
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I've had lots of inspiration for this idea. I wanted to have a real dress that could easily be de-pixified, so the fairy elements had to be separate from the gown itself.<br />
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<i><b>Pixified</b></i><br />
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The biggest influence is Katherine's <a href="http://koshka-the-cat.livejournal.com/1269089.html">Regency fairy</a>, with her paper wings made from Jane Austen text. I loved this atypical interpretation of the fairy idea, and I wanted to do something similarly unusual.
<cut>The "paisley" idea was purely a product of brainstorming back in October. I wanted an idea, or a motif, that is immediately associated with the Regency period, just as Jane Austen is. I thought about authors, the wars, and then textiles - and thought of the "paisley" shawls that dominated European fashion. The Dreamstress wrote about <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/2013/01/the-kashmiri-shawl-and-the-dress-made-of-kashmir-shawls/">the shawls, and the gowns made from them</a>, in a serendipitous post several weeks ago. ;) So my first thought was go make use of the shawl-like motif.</cut><br />
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<cut>I've always loved fairy wings; I used to make them out of paper when I was a little girl. :) So wings were a necessity, even apart from Katherine's example. I bought some decent wire-framed wings from Joann's during Halloween, and planned to cover them with scraps of old shawls. But surprise, no scraps were to be found! Even on ebay there were only bits for sale, and they weren't cheap. And my conscience started to poke me at the thought of cutting them up further. In desperation I expanded my searches, and started turning up saris. Saris often have the "paisley" motifs (botehs) spread out or lined up, instead of big and intertwined. And it struck me how like feathers the botehs looked... </cut><br />
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<cut>This vintage silk sari (for all of $21) arrived last week: </cut><br />
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<cut><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8389145619/" title="Vintage Silk Sari 1 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="Vintage Silk Sari 1" height="422" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8187/8389145619_70bb2879fb.jpg" width="500" /></a> </cut><br />
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<cut>The botehs in the border are 5-6" long apiece. I'm going to cut them out individually, and place them on the wire frame wings like feathers. I'll use some of the small paisley ground to cover the wire wings, and fill in any blank spots. The silk is very light, like "China" silk. </cut><br />
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<cut><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8390230674/" title="Vintage Silk Sari 7 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="Vintage Silk Sari 7" height="492" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8184/8390230674_6eaac31e55.jpg" width="500" /></a> </cut><br />
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<cut>I'm going to get a big loom bobbin to use for a wand (with paisley streamers??), and remake my failed red velvet bonnet into a tam, with a border from the sari. And either real or paisley feathers, depending on what I have left. So this is definitely a Scottish Paisley fairy, not a Kashmiri fairy. ;)</cut><br />
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<cut>Depending on what I have left of the sari, the plan is to ornament the rest of the dress. I don't think I'll be able to use the big design on the sari; the skirt will be too full for a border, even if I cut it up and turn the motifs lengthwise. :( Any ideas? </cut><br />
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<cut><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8390230746/" title="Vintage Silk Sari 8 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="Vintage Silk Sari 8" height="500" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8504/8390230746_4845ce603b.jpg" width="478" /></a>
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<cut><i><b>The Gown</b></i> </cut><br />
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<cut>The gown itself had to coordinate with the sari, but the sari was one of the last things I sourced. Without it, the whole outfit falls apart, so that's why I've kept this under wraps until now.</cut><br />
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<cut>I was undecided on the fabric for quite some time, thinking of the short lengths of mauve and blue wool I have in my stash, and considering ekeing out <a href="http://pinterest.com/SceneInThePast/1800-1820-regency-sleeveless-dress-shirt/">a sleeveless dress</a>. I've always like the ones in <a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537345499373/">Mrs. Hurst Dancing</a>. Then I found the beautiful crimson wool that I used for Jordi's FMA robe. I deliberately way overbought, so that I could make whatever I wanted with the remnants. Not only is the crimson perfect for coordinating with traditional paisley designs, it is a favorite color of mine and reminds me of Megan's warm and colorful <a href="http://mlsdesigns.livejournal.com/141285.html">Regency winter gown</a>.</cut><br />
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<cut>All of my Regency gowns are early Regency, with long drapey and/or trained skirts. To be different I'm aiming for the early/mid 1810s, with shorter, slightly flared skirts and more structured sleeves. I also wanted to do a front-fastening dress. Studying the sleeveless dresses, as well as <a href="http://pinterest.com/SceneInThePast/1800-1820-regency-paisley/">shawl gowns</a> and <a href="http://pinterest.com/SceneInThePast/1800-1820-regency-red-wool-dress-inspiration/">wool gowns</a>, I came up with my own idea.</cut><br />
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<cut>The basic inspiration is this 1815 fashion plate of a red shawl gown. </cut><br />
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<a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537345499418/" target="_blank"><img alt="" border="0" height="640" src="http://media-cache-ec5.pinterest.com/upload/228135537345499418_txOXMloK_c.jpg" width="403" /></a></div>
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Source: <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/6303421643/in/set-72157628030970730" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;">flickr.com</a> via <a href="http://pinterest.com/SceneInThePast/" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Scene in the Past</a> on <a href="http://pinterest.com/" style="color: #76838b; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Pinterest</a></div>
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The skirt length is perfect, just short enough, but not requiring the visible underskirt. More importantly, I love the look of the short sleeves with long white sleeves. I could have two pair of long sleeves, one muslin, and one self fabric, for three looks. With a moderately-low bodice, this dress can do either day or evening duty in nearly all seasons.<br />
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<a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537345776447/" target="_blank"><img alt="" border="0" height="640" src="http://media-cache-lt0.pinterest.com/upload/228135537343624457_muHazZBr_c.jpg" width="425" /></a></div>
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Source: <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/4844037432/in/set-72157624616333004/" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;">flickr.com</a> via <a href="http://pinterest.com/SceneInThePast/" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Scene in the Past</a> on <a href="http://pinterest.com/" style="color: #76838b; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Pinterest</a></div>
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I had some difficulty finding a pattern to adapt. I finally settled on the Patterns of Fashion bib-front gown as a base for the bodice and sleeves. Although it's dated to very early Regency, it's really only the trained skirt (and maybe the very high back waist) that make it so. I've adapted the sleeves, particularly to shorten the top sleeve so it's puffier and no longer than the waistline.<br />
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The bib front itself is going to be pleated and drawn in. This silk gown isn't a drop-front dress, but it's almost perfect for copying. I hope the wool doesn't have too much body to do this.
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<a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537345778919/" target="_blank"><img alt="" border="0" height="1265" src="http://media-cache-lt0.pinterest.com/upload/228135537345778919_33L8VCXQ_c.jpg" width="554" /></a></div>
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Source: <a href="http://www.uvm.edu/%7Ehag/regency/evening-extant/1818x-blueleaf.jpg" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;">uvm.edu</a> via <a href="http://pinterest.com/SceneInThePast/" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Scene in the Past</a> on <a href="http://pinterest.com/" style="color: #76838b; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Pinterest</a></div>
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I'm using one of the Hunnisett skirts, one with a lot of flared edges. I'm concerned that a front skirt that falls straight from my ribs will pull across my wide hips, so I'm also cutting down the center front skirt at the waist a little. The apron front should allow plenty of room, but there's no point in taking chances.<br />
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For trim, I'm planning on self fringe. Jen's redingote fringe turned out so awesome! I've been seeing fringe in a lot of fashion plates now. I like this one, with a double row at the hem and at the cuffs of the short sleeves.<br />
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<a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537345777342/" target="_blank"><img alt="" border="0" height="640" src="http://media-cache-ec2.pinterest.com/upload/228135537345777342_EpNITGNl_c.jpg" width="406" /></a></div>
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Source: <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/4882842705/sizes/o/in/set-72157624704755764/" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;">flickr.com</a> via <a href="http://pinterest.com/SceneInThePast/" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Scene in the Past</a> on <a href="http://pinterest.com/" style="color: #76838b; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Pinterest</a></div>
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I love the long sleeves with buttoned wrist strap, so I'll probably do that, and try adding fringe to the strap. And maybe to the long cuff over the hand, too. This will definitely be my entry for the HSF challenge on Trimming. ;)<br />
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I'm leaning toward these blousey ones with the doubled frill for my muslin sleeves. I'd probably do the frill in organza or organdy for lots of poof.<br />
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<a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537345778763/" target="_blank"><img alt="" border="0" height="640" src="http://media-cache-ec5.pinterest.com/upload/228135537345778763_owmmf3nN_c.jpg" width="398" /></a></div>
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Source: <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/6304064398/sizes/o/in/set-72157627906435963/" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;">flickr.com</a> via <a href="http://pinterest.com/SceneInThePast/" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Scene in the Past</a> on <a href="http://pinterest.com/" style="color: #76838b; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Pinterest</a></div>
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I may have some kind of chemisette or tucker as well. I have a chemisette I can use if I run out of time, or if something else becomes priority.<br />
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As for accessories: Green or black shoes, and red stockings! And a reticule. I am so bad about remembering a bag to carry with my costumes.<br />
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When I haven't been working on my UFO this week, I've been tracing and testing patterns. Last night I made the last bodice and sleeve muslin. I just need to test the pleated apron front now. I'm looking forward to putting this dress together.Scene in the Pasthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00152966266473265321noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1692455426705092161.post-58576978769221820412013-01-16T17:12:00.004-06:002013-03-11T10:47:19.778-05:00Historical Sew Fortnightly #1: Bi/Tri/Quadri/Quin/Sex/Septi/Octo/Nona/CentennialOtherwise known as: What would reasonably still be in use by year XX13?<br />
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My costuming plans for this year include projects from the 1790s into the 1810s. The first step of any gown is the foundation. I have 1780s stays, but the 1790s gown is a transitional style and needed a different silhouette. My 1800s stays give too low a waistline, so I also wanted to replace them.<br />
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I'm fascinated by the transitional styles between the upright, long-waisted, big-skirted 18th century and the graceful, high-waisted, flowing skirts of the early 19th. Transitional stays are just as interesting. I decided to reproduce these ca. 1790 stays from the Victoria & Albert Musuem.<br />
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<a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537345277439/" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="600" src="http://media-cache-ec3.pinterest.com/upload/228135537345277439_SgmWmLIL_c.jpg" width="406" /></a></div>
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Source: <a href="http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O138889/stays-unknown/" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;">collections.vam.ac.uk</a> via <a href="http://pinterest.com/SceneInThePast/" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Scene in the Past</a> on <a href="http://pinterest.com/" style="color: #76838b; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Pinterest</a></div>
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There is no pattern for these stays. I started with the diagram given for late 1790s stays on page 44 of <i>Corsets and Crinolines.</i> These stays did not have the bust cups of the V&A stays, and they were longer, but the pattern pieces and boning lines were similar.<br />
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I enlarged the pattern using my printer/scanner and Adobe Acrobat:<br />
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1. Scan the pattern at medium resolution.<br />
2. In Acrobat, open the Print window. Select Poster print and enlarge it. Easy!<br />
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In this case, I printed at both 350% and 400%. 350% was perfect for the scale, but I was afraid it would be too small so I started my mockup with the 400% pieces. It turns out that 350% would have fit me better, but who cares? :)<br />
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The only other major change to the pattern, besides adding the bust cups, was to shorten the whole thing 1" below the bust. The 1790s transitional style I'm focusing on all had slightly raised waists, so I had no interest in making these fit my waist.<br />
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I made 2.5 mockups. The first was in muslin with no boning, to get a general idea of the fit and where to fit the bust cups. The second muslin was in cheap cotton duck, with steel boning duck-taped to the inside. The duck tape worked perfectly! It tears down the middle into perfect casing-sized pieces. My mockup and the tape are both white, but hopefully it's clear in this picture.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8381758409/" title="DSC06037 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06037" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8498/8381758409_05100b25f5.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
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Eventually I shortened the straps and tightened the seams enough to get a really good look. For a final check, I put on one of my Regency gowns. The red dot marks where the new waistline is, a good 1.5" higher than before. Success!<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8381758835/" title="DSC06039 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06039" height="500" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8326/8381758835_b21980f8ea.jpg" width="375" /></a></div>
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The stays are three layers: cotton drill, cotton sateen, and lightweight mauve wool. I debated using linen canvas, but the V&A stays are cotton and I saved the linen for another project.<br />
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I used a mix of 18th and 19th century techniques in construction. The V&A stays do not have a binding, so I ended up sewing all layers of each piece together at the side seams, with the top and bottom edges in to be hemmed later. The boning channels were machined.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8381760567/" title="DSC06051 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06051" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8358/8381760567_8a9b949a23.jpg" width="500" /></a></div>
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Then I sewed the pieces to each other: wrong sides together, with a running stitch through all folded edges. It's a very strong, and rather ornamental.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8381761093/" title="DSC06072 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06072" height="500" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8328/8381761093_14de6c05d4.jpg" width="375" /></a></div>
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The bust cups are only wool and sateen, gathered up on cording. I liked the multiple rows of cording because they give more support, similar to gussets in later stays.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8382843946/" title="DSC06049 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06049" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8089/8382843946_691191a148.jpg" width="500" /></a></div>
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The rest of the work was done by hand: setting in the bust cups, hemming all around, and 32 eyelets. I also sewed down a narrow 1/8" tape over the seams. I almost felt bad to cover them up, but I love the emphasis given by the white lines.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8381762247/" title="DSC06080 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06080" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8375/8381762247_8085d7bdb7.jpg" width="500" /></a></div>
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I waited as late as I could in the construction before inserting the reed. It's so much easier to work with stays when they're not all stiff and awkward!<br />
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There are some tweaks I still want to make, such as cutting the tabs further up, adding cording above them, and topstitching all around the edges, but I'm very pleased with my new stays!<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8381761519/" title="DSC06074 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06074" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8375/8381761519_d8da8a1d30.jpg" width="500" /></a></div>
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<i><b>Just the Facts, Ma'am</b></i> (Does anyone else get that reference?)<br />
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<i><b>The Challenge: </b></i>HSF #1, Bi/Tri/Quadri/Quin/Sex/Septi/Octo/Nona/Centennial<br />
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<b><i>Fabric: </i></b>white cotton drill, white cotton sateen, mauve wool suiting<br />
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<b><i>Pattern:</i></b><i> </i><b> </b>Adapted from <i>Corsets and Crinolines</i>, page 44.<br />
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<b><i>Year: </i></b> The V&A stays are c. 1790, but I think they're mid 1790s.<br />
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<i><b>Notions: </b></i>reed for boning; Sugar 'n' Cream cotton yarn for cording<br />
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<i><b>How historically accurate is it? </b></i>The shape is as accurate as I can make it. Construction is accurate, except for the use of the machine for basting, side seams, and boning channels. The wool suiting is a twill weave that may not be accurate. I think I used polyester thread, because I'm annoyed with my cotton thread curling so much, and linen would be more accurate anyway.<br />
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<i><b>Hours to complete: </b></i>Including patterning and mockup time, roughly 40 hours.<br />
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<b><i>First worn: </i></b>Only once with all the lacing, just to make sure they work.<br />
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<i><b>Total cost: </b></i>I didn't buy anything for this! Maybe $10 of fabric, and the reed was given to me.<br />
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My brother Trevor gets credit for an assist. I supplied him with reed,
scissors, ruler, nail file, trash can, and a list of lengths. During
the football games last Saturday, he measured, cut, and sanded 34 pieces
of reed boning for me. (That includes two that I broke in my final try-on.) Thank you so much,
Trevor!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8382845588/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="DSC06077 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06077" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8369/8382845588_c44fbe8660.jpg" width="500" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The list of cut lengths I gave him is barely visible on the far right.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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The Historical Sew Fortnightly has already proved its worth for me. If it weren't for the challenge, I would not have decided on a design as quickly as I did. I'd still be dragging my way through the construction. But 10 days, I have one of my biggest 2013 projects out of the way. Now I can make pretty dresses to go over the stays!Scene in the Pasthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00152966266473265321noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1692455426705092161.post-20437527388992687832013-01-13T18:06:00.000-06:002013-03-11T10:47:39.858-05:00Historical Sew Fortnightly #0: Starting SimpleBefore I even considered taking up the challenge, I had accomplished a minor, but fiddly, annoying, and tedious alteration. It is also very important, because without it a significant part of my sewing plans for the year would be shelved. I had to alter my 1860s corset!<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8377670897/" title="DSC06061 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06061" height="640" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8491/8377670897_609d6511dc_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
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It's very nicely made, but over the year or two I've worn it, I realized that it was not only too short on top, it was too tight. Uncomfortable and unflattering. Instead of making a new corset entirely, I decided to alter it: adding gussets at the bust for more room, and adding a strip on the top to raise it appropriately.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8378748608/" title="DSC06065 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06065" height="480" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8358/8378748608_f46d84b568_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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Somehow I got the idea to cord the new gussets and the top strip. It added to the work, but I think it was a good move. I didn't want to extend the boning casings and add longer steel, so the cording provides stiffening and a little more support. It also adds a little to the curve of the corset, which is nice! I sewed a large hook and eye to the top to keep the edges together.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8378748216/" title="DSC06064 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06064" height="480" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8509/8378748216_b69b6fc601_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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Cording is a lot less common in corsets from the 1850s onward, but it still exists. For what it's worth, I based the angle of the cording off an 1830s one from the book <i>Corsets.</i><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8378746974/" title="DSC06062 by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06062" height="480" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8357/8378746974_6fcf74b2fc_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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This is the only picture you get of me in it. I had it on when I was drafting a new base bodice pattern, and snapped a picture when I realized how it looked even with a cardigan and sweatpants. It's a very bad photo, but hopefully it gets the effect across.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/8378746144/" title="DSC06032 cropped by SceneInThePast, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC06032 cropped" height="640" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8195/8378746144_cba73c2683_z.jpg" width="597" /></a><br />
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<i><b>The Challenge: </b></i>HSF #0, Starting Simple<br />
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<b><i>Fabric: </i></b>white cotton sateen<br />
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<b><i>Pattern:</i></b><i> </i><b> </b>None. I free-handed the gusset shape and the top strip.<br />
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<b><i>Year: </i></b> Appropriate for c. 1860 onward (originally the Laughing Moon Dore corset)<br />
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<i><b>Notions: </b></i>Sugar 'n' Cream cotton yarn for cording<br />
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<i><b>How historically accurate is it? </b></i>Well, I can definitely believe a woman in the 1860s would have remodeled an existing corset instead of having a new one made. And while most garments with existing alterations from the period are very skillfully done, there are others very sloppy indeed! So I used period techniques and made it work.<br />
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<i><b>Hours to complete: </b></i>I wasn't really keeping track, since this was before I thought of the challenge. Maybe 12.<br />
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<b><i>First worn: </i></b>Officially, not yet.<br />
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<i><b>Total cost: </b></i>$3.00 for the Sugar 'n' Cream, which I somehow didn't have on hand. The sateen was from the stash.<br />
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<br />Scene in the Pasthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00152966266473265321noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1692455426705092161.post-65987611148138305822013-01-07T13:07:00.000-06:002013-03-11T10:48:39.151-05:00Throwing My Bonnet into the Ring: The Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
I’ve never participated in a challenge or sew-along before. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Some are too time-intensive (Sew Weekly), some
are very timing-specific (most sew-alongs), and just about all of them mean
spending time creating something I don’t really need, in place of other things
I really do need.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In other words, it’s
adding an obligation.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
When I saw mention of the Dreamstress’s 2013 challenge over
the Christmas holidays, I was intrigued; and then the description lit my
fire.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This challenge will not only be
fun, it will be helpful, encouraging, and motivating.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I have a very large sewing list I want/need to get through
before the middle of June: everything I need for both the 150<sup>th</sup>
Gettysburg and for Costume College.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Even
with nearly six months to work, I was nearly flailing, trying to decide where
to start sewing, buying, and researching. (Not in that order.) The HSF is
genius!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The challenges are specific, but
open to wide interpretation.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I think I
can wangle nearly something from my list to fit every challenge!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So I have:</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Schedule.</b><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I’ve got to have a plan for getting all my
projects done. The HSF gives me a rough outline I can work with, and through,
without being entirely self-determined.</div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Motivation.</b>
I’m one of those people who work well from lists (I do write things down solely
so I can cross them out!) for the motivation I get from accomplishment.</div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Deadlines.</b><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I don’t like stress, but reasonable deadlines
help me keep focused and working.</div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Encouragement</b>
and interest from sewing along with others, and seeing how everyone else
interprets the challenges</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The challenge projects are also not the only things I will
be sewing. They just add a more fun wrinkle to it!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My plans for the later challenges are also
rather fluid.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They’ll change up as I
accomplish more and get a clearer vision for the next items.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
My one resolve is not to make something <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">solely</b> to fit a challenge. I simply have too many necessary things <span style="mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">to make to afford extra projects.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Right </span><span style="mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">now, here are my
plans:</span></div>
<ul type="disc">
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"><a href="http://thedreamstress.com/the-historical-sew-fortnightly/the-hsf-challenge-0-starting-simple/"><b><span style="color: blue;">#0 (the bonus challenge): Starting Simple</span></b><span style="color: blue;"> </span></a>- due 31 December NZT. Finish a
project, make a very simple garment, or something you have made before.</span></li>
</ul>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Refashion 1860s corset. </span></b><span style="mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">I will do my project post for this shortly.
All I did was insert bust gores and raise the front upper edge. It was tedious,
and definitely a franken-corset, but it fits much better now. I’ve already made
new base patterns for all my immediate 1860s needs, too.</span></div>
<ul type="disc">
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;"><b><span style="mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">#1: <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/hsf-challenge-1bitriquadriquinsexseptioctononacentennial/" target="_blank"><span style="color: blue;">Bi/Tri/Quadri/Quin/Sex/Septi/Octo/Nona/Centennial</span></a></span></b><span style="mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"> – due 14 Jan. Sew something from
__13, whether it be 1913, 1613, or 13BC</span></li>
</ul>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Late 1790s-1810s short stays.</span></b><span style="mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My
costuming plans for this year included both mid/late 1790s transitional stays
and new 1800s short stays. I woke up Friday morning realizing there was no
reason one set of stays couldn’t be perfectly accurate for both!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Based on the Dreamstress’s extended
description (“…</span><span style="mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">what you really want to do is make something that would be worn in
1813 (or 913, or 1613) without looking too outdated”), I think these stays fit
the bill.</span><br />
<br />
<div style="line-height: 0px; padding-bottom: 2px;">
<a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537345277439/" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="600" src="https://s-media-cache-ec4.pinimg.com/upload/228135537345277439_SgmWmLIL_c.jpg" width="406" /></a></div>
<div style="float: left; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px;">
<div style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px;">
Source: <a href="http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O138889/stays-unknown/" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;">collections.vam.ac.uk</a> via <a href="http://pinterest.com/SceneInThePast/" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Scene in the Past</a> on <a href="http://pinterest.com/" style="color: #76838b; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Pinterest</a></div>
</div>
<br />
Mine will be covered with mauve tropical weight wool, stitched with white. Pretty!</div>
<ul type="disc">
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;"><b><span style="mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">#2: UFO </span></b><span style="mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">- due Jan
28. Let’s get something off our UFO pile! Use this opportunity to
finish off something that’s never quite gotten done, or stalled halfway
through.</span></li>
</ul>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">I’m going to finally finish hemming
the <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">cross-barred organdy 1780s
handkerchief</b> I first wore at Costume College last year. I hemmed the outer
edges and added a ruffle for the Georgian picnic in November, but the neck edge
is still raw. I’ve decided this doesn’t violate my one resolution</span></div>
<ul type="disc">
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;"><b><span style="mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">#3: Under it all</span></b><span style="mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"> – due Feb 11. Every great historical outfit starts
with the right undergarments, and, just in time for Valentines day, here’s
you’re excuse to make them. Chemises, corsets, corded petticoats, drawers,
garters, stockings…if it goes under your garments, it qualifies.</span></li>
</ul>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Pockets!</span></b><span style="mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It’s a long sad story, but
sum up: I have only had one 18<sup>th</sup> century pocket, it’s rather small,
and the bottom seam has ripped almost completely out. I’m going to make two big
pockets that I can use for everything pre-1800.</span></div>
<ul type="disc">
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;"><b><span style="mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">#4: Embellish</span></b><span style="mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"> – due
Feb 25. Decorations make the historical garment glorious. Whether
you use embroidery, trim, pleating, lace, buttons, bows, applique,
quilting, jewels, fringe, or any other form of embellishment, this
challenge is all about decorative detail.</span></li>
</ul>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Trim 1810s dress.</span></b><span style="mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This
dress isn’t strictly part of the challenge, but it’s something that needs
finished before the end of March. My design isn’t final yet, but There Will Be
Trim.</span></div>
<ul type="disc">
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;"><b><span style="mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">#5: Peasants & Pioneers</span></b><span style="mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"> – due March 11. As wonderful as making pretty, pretty
princess dresses is, the vast majority of people have always been poor
commoners, whether they were peasants working the land, servants in big
houses, or (later), pioneers carving their own space in new lands. This
fortnight let’s make something that celebrates the common man.</span></li>
</ul>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">??? </span></b><span style="mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is the tricky one,
since nothing of what I’m planning is for a truly poor or frontier impression.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I’m leaning toward some workaday
underpinnings, which, if done without expensive lace, could be worn by almost
anyone: 1700s or 1800s shift (I hate my current one, the neckline is HUGE),
Regency petticoat with straps, 1860s drawers, 1860s chemises…</span></div>
<ul type="disc">
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;"><b><span style="mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">#6: Stripes -</span></b><span style="mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"> due March
25. The stripe is one of the oldest patterns, appearing in the earliest
textile fragments and visual records of garments, and its never gone out
of style since. Celebrate stripes with a striped garment. Will you go for
grand baroque stripes, pastel rococo stripes, severe neoclassical stripes,
elaborately pleated and bustled Victorian stripes, or something else
entirely?</span></li>
</ul>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">1800s/1810s detachable white sleeves. ???<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></b><span style="mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">I’m not sure about this yet, but that’s what I’m leaning toward. I’ve
got some semisheer white cotton with narrow woven stripes that will work for
various white accessories.</span></div>
<ul type="disc">
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;"><b><span style="mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">#7: Accessorize</span></b><span style="mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"> – due April 9. Accessories add polish to your outfits,
helping to create the perfect historical look. This week is all about
bringing an outfit together. Trim a bonnet, paint a fan, crochet an
evening bag, sew a shawl, or dye and decorate a pair of shoes to create
the perfect period accessory for yourself.</span></li>
</ul>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">1810s hat. ??? </span></b><span style="mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I haven’t
settled on this yet, but the hat will be needed for sure. I also need a
reticule, but my old one isn’t as terrible a clash with this gown as it has
been with others. We’ll see.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">Plenty of my needs
are left off this. A sheer dress</span> for Gettysburg, the Curtain-Along
dress, anything to do with the Majestic Mantua…<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>But note that with the exception of #2 and #4, all of my entries are
fairly small items.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I will be able to
work on other projects, including research, finalizing design, and drafting and
muslin testing (YICK), concurrently with finishing the challenges.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I’m super excited! And it feels good to be moving forward.</div>
Scene in the Pasthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00152966266473265321noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1692455426705092161.post-69108324771172060162012-12-10T06:00:00.000-06:002013-03-11T10:49:13.934-05:00Material!<br />
Before I talk about materials for this dress, I'm going to take a quick detour into my Philosophy of Costuming. <br />
<br />
<br />
I got into costuming through reenacting. American Civil War (1861-1865), specifically. When I discovered the internet and authentic construction, I took to it like a duck to water. Ever since then, I can't lose my love for authenticity. For me, there's just as much beauty in a complete, authentic look as in an outfit that's shinier, fancier, and more elaborate, whether or not it's just as authentic.<br />
<br />
So I can't honestly say I'm in the Pretty, Pretty Princess camp. BUT!!! This applies to ME and to ME ONLY! The vast majority (dare I say ALL?) of my dear costuming friends are Pretty, Pretty Princesses, and I love it!<br />
<br />
At the same time, complete authenticity is impossible, so it's not my goal. I want to be as authentic as possible within my own limits, including budget and time. Those are, for historical costuming:<br />
<br />
1. Natural fibers for fabric and other material. I keep to silk, wool, cotton, and linen, also keeping in mind that certain fibers are more appropriate than others. I usually use cotton thread for
1860s, but I haven't spent the money for a stock of silk or linen
thread for earlier periods. Also woven tapes. I've got lots of cotton, but I haven't yet
gotten linen tape. I also use fine cottons for frilly 18th century stuff, because fine linen is either impossible to find or crazy expensive!<br />
<br />
2. Hand finishing, though not typically hand seaming; no visible machine sewing for anything pre-1860. I have sewn a complete Regency outfit by hand, from the skin out, so I know I can do it; I don't have anything to prove.<br />
<br />
<br />
I love research. Because the more I know, the better equipped I am to decide where to be authentic, and where to make compromises. That is fun!<br />
<br />
<br />
So! All that to say that before I commit to a certain project, I try to ensure that I can get the appropriate materials. The Maid Marian dress pushed that envelope a bit, but I had more flexibility because I wasn't making a period-accurate costume, for either the 1100s or the 1930s. ;)<br />
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<a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537345455976/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="800" src="http://media-cache-ec3.pinterest.com/upload/228135537345455976_hK3xAqeA_c.jpg" width="507" /></a></div>
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<div style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px;">
Source: <a href="http://nttreasurehunt.wordpress.com/2012/11/27/petworths-oriental-vibe/" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;">nttreasurehunt.wordpress.com</a> via <a href="http://pinterest.com/SceneInThePast/" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Scene in the Past</a> on <a href="http://pinterest.com/" style="color: #76838b; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Pinterest</a></div>
</div>
<br />
<br />
This dress first grabbed me because of the perfect match for silk I already have. But the other parts of concerned me. I saw:<br />
<br />
* White fur (ermine)<br />
* Gold and silver or white silk brocade in a particular pattern<br />
* Fine, hand-made silk lace on the skirt.<br />
<br />
The fur is not a <i>problem</i>, as such. I would have no problem with substituting a similar short-hair fur like rabbit for ermine, and I know I can get it (Tandy Leather is based in my city, and I have connections in Minnesota). The big problem is that I hate sewing on it! Well, it's really the leather. The needles are big and hurt me fingers, and it always feels awkward as I'm sewing it. And this is a lot of fur!<br />
<br />
However, I realized that I could go with white velvet instead. Cotton velvet is more similar to historical velvets (at least 19th century velvets) than is silk or rayon velvet, it's super soft, and it's relatively easy to work with. It's also readily available. So that solved that problem!<br />
<br />
Brocade I've never shopped for. However, I found some decent leads on ebay, particularly from the seller <a href="http://stores.ebay.com/puresilkfabrics">Pure Silks</a>. The prices are no more than par for taffeta, either; from $15-19/yd. Ouch, but it's only for a petticoat, so it's more affordable.<br />
<br />
Lace, however, had me really worried. Modern laces are infamous for being stiff and scratchy. And even antique lace is usually fairly pricey - and I'd need a lot of it! The sleeve flounces I know I can find a length or two that won't break the bank. The skirt is a whole 'nother problem. But I suddenly thought about finding a sheer silk with a woven or embroidered design, and making my own "lace" substitute. The lace in the portrait is gathered so tightly that the lace design isn't the highlight of the design, too. Thai Silks has some interesting things, like<a href="http://www.thaisilks.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_86&products_id=1237"> embroidered chiffon</a>, that might work fairly well. I really want the effect to be the same, and for that the "lace" must be <i>very</i> soft and drapey. Even antique cotton lace probably wouldn't be soft enough.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
That takes care of the big ones! Now it's only the details to be settled, like the tasseled girdle, the skirt fringe/trim, and the brooches/ornaments.<br />
<br />
<br />
The skirt fringe I'm not too concerned about yet. I'm reasonably confident I can find a white trim that's similar enough for the effect.<br />
<br />
<br />
The tassels were another thing again. I can't tell clearly what they are, except that they're definitely not just straight pieces of silk. At first I thought they were like crocheted shells. I spent several days, off and on, googling for crochet patterns and for all kinds of home dec tassels, and I pulled up a big fat zero. I was getting seriously worried!<br />
<br />
This other portrait, while dating from 50 years later, is amazingly similar in style. It sure shows the consistency of formal court dress!<br />
<br />
<br />
<div style="line-height: 0px; padding-bottom: 2px;">
<a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537345493587/" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="820" src="http://media-cache0.pinterest.com/upload/4362930860644614_rV4b7xp4_c.jpg" width="600" /></a></div>
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<div style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px;">
Source: <a href="http://www.huntsearch.gla.ac.uk/cgi-bin/foxweb/huntsearch/LargeImage.fwx?collection=art&catno=44023&filename=44023.jpg" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;">huntsearch.gla.ac.uk</a> via <a href="http://pinterest.com/SceneInThePast/" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Scene in the Past</a> on <a href="http://pinterest.com/" style="color: #76838b; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Pinterest</a></div>
</div>
<br />
<br />
The tassel is much clearer here, though, and also shows how it's got a strange clumpy or short feathery texture. So very strange.<br />
<br />
And suddenly I discovered what it was, when I stumbled over the blog <a href="http://italian-needlework.blogspot.com/">Italian Needlework</a>. Something I never knew existed before - Italian-style tassels. Look at these pictures!<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivWXjefrXGIb1bl9DmhhxAW6iWJIDCgVNgRAiUYbHkhD9oVDrTx53PESbHUWaxnhkEH7czVE1-1yo0fgQgHzqMwdV-MVROOikx7jzdbOxMWYsu89HUTlUBecFqjFjcMlTl_nWnRACazODT/s400/MulticolouredTassel-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivWXjefrXGIb1bl9DmhhxAW6iWJIDCgVNgRAiUYbHkhD9oVDrTx53PESbHUWaxnhkEH7czVE1-1yo0fgQgHzqMwdV-MVROOikx7jzdbOxMWYsu89HUTlUBecFqjFjcMlTl_nWnRACazODT/s320/MulticolouredTassel-3.jpg" width="174" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl-G_G3pF1ueGJSwsQ4zNA9gnPD2XlKz04EP15Lm44fgt-K2GDYJm2Q0D_bVGmsihQ1lsx3W1u3TlcuQ2MZ5pxn_6-ZNtmSK1xE1ky1U3010KYNxxklqY8NiSF5_Efqqs0zzNKnp9w5V1t/s400/MacrameHandle-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl-G_G3pF1ueGJSwsQ4zNA9gnPD2XlKz04EP15Lm44fgt-K2GDYJm2Q0D_bVGmsihQ1lsx3W1u3TlcuQ2MZ5pxn_6-ZNtmSK1xE1ky1U3010KYNxxklqY8NiSF5_Efqqs0zzNKnp9w5V1t/s320/MacrameHandle-3.jpg" width="253" /></a></div>
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<br />
<br />
<br />
These tassels are essentially short knotted pieces of thread or floss, which are strung on another fiber with a needle and knotted apart.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEt5Nrsqhpjl0SeiDguHfbrnpSSPWv1_4xRu6EaSmOQn6YeSmmhY4tb0KEXOiqopin227ax4H3EA1NUR0grNMv3yJ4R7rZZc6pTERKhDyk2gprL3ScUwx5cLeQmSGiYQZiTzTnG3NBSoCu/s400/SpaceBtwKnots.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEt5Nrsqhpjl0SeiDguHfbrnpSSPWv1_4xRu6EaSmOQn6YeSmmhY4tb0KEXOiqopin227ax4H3EA1NUR0grNMv3yJ4R7rZZc6pTERKhDyk2gprL3ScUwx5cLeQmSGiYQZiTzTnG3NBSoCu/s320/SpaceBtwKnots.jpg" width="264" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
So I will be learning a new skill for these! I am so excited. :D I was not looking forward to trying to make up my own crocheted tassels (did they even have crochet in the 17th century?), but this looks fun!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The last difficulty, still unsolved, is the brooches. They look to my untutored eye like something that ought to be available for SCA. Do any of you have recommendations for vendors? And hopefully ones that won't cost the earth? I'm willing to skip the ones on the skirt, for the sake of affordability, but it just won't the same without the graduated jewels on the front!<br />
<br />
Ideas VERY welcome!!!<br />
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<br />Scene in the Pasthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00152966266473265321noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1692455426705092161.post-63116541678285150772012-12-07T06:00:00.000-06:002013-03-11T10:49:34.053-05:00What actually is it?In <a href="http://sceneinthepast.blogspot.com/2012/12/the-majestic-mantua.html">my previous post</a> on "The Majestic Mantua," I mentioned that it was actually mis-named. I'm still calling it that because it's catchy and I love alliteration! But what is a mantua? And if this gown isn't one, what is it instead?<br />
<br />
To quote <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mantua_%28clothing%29">Wikipedia</a>:<br />
<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
A <b>mantua</b> (from the French <i>manteuil</i> ) is an article of women's clothing worn in the late 17th century and 18th century. Originally a loose gown, the later mantua was an overgown or robe typically worn over stays, stomacher and a co-ordinating petticoat.<br />
The earliest mantuas emerged in the late 17th century as a
comfortable alternative to the boned bodices and separate skirts then
widely worn.<br />
The mantua featured elbow-length, cuffed sleeves, and the overskirt was typically drawn back over the hips to expose the petticoat beneath. In the earliest mantuas, the long trained skirt was allowed to trail.</blockquote>
Here's the picture actually used in the article.<br />
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<a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537345462969/" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="600" src="http://media-cache-ec2.pinterest.com/upload/228065168599508484_h2WkKR1X_c.jpg" width="408" /></a></div>
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<div style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px;">
Source: <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Mailly.jpg" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;">en.wikipedia.org</a> via <a href="http://pinterest.com/SceneInThePast/" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Scene in the Past</a> on <a href="http://pinterest.com/" style="color: #76838b; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Pinterest</a></div>
</div>
<br />
<br />
The mantua was originally a loose gown, rather rectangular in construction. There's a <a href="http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O82504/dolls-mantua-unknown/">darling example on a 1690s doll</a> that clearly shows its blockiness, the folds on the edges, and how it doesn't even meet in front.<br />
<br />
Wikipedia claims that the mantua evolved into formal court dress of the 1700s. Cassidy's <a href="http://mimic-of-modes.blogspot.com/2011/06/english-and-french-womens-court-dress.html">research on court dress</a>, however, indicates that only English court dress developed from the front-closing mantua, while French court dress was a fossilized form of earlier 1600s dress, with separate back-fastening boned bodice and skirt. If I recall correctly, in <a href="http://demodecouture.com/">Kendra</a>'s class on 18th century dress variations, she traced the sacque (robe à la francaise) back to the early 1700s <a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/230457705902697203/">robe volante</a>. I <i>think</i> the robe volante, with its loose shape and geometrical pattern, came from the mantua when its skirts were not draped back. (I'd welcome corrections on any of this!)<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The mantua was originally worn open, showing the separate boned bodice and petticoat beneath. Gradually the boned bodice evolved into stays. From being a <a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537345469161/">complete dress bodice</a>, the fine fabric and decoration was <a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537345462061/">limited to the front</a>, and then vanished from sight as it was covered by a separate stomacher.<br />
<br />
<br />
Back to the original question. If the time period is right, and the silhouette is similar, why is this portrait of the Duchess of Somerset so clearly not a mantua?<br />
<br />
<div style="line-height: 0px; padding-bottom: 2px;">
<a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537345455976/" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="800" src="http://media-cache-ec3.pinterest.com/upload/228135537345455976_hK3xAqeA_c.jpg" width="507" /></a></div>
<div style="float: left; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px;">
<div style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px;">
Source: <a href="http://nttreasurehunt.wordpress.com/2012/11/27/petworths-oriental-vibe/" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;">nttreasurehunt.wordpress.com</a> via <a href="http://pinterest.com/SceneInThePast/" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Scene in the Past</a> on <a href="http://pinterest.com/" style="color: #76838b; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Pinterest</a></div>
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The time period is right, and there are similarities in the silhouette, but there it ends. Compare to this portrait of 1693, which shows a non-informal mantua. <br />
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<div style="line-height: 0px; padding-bottom: 2px;">
<a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537345462446/" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="512" src="http://media-cache-ec6.pinterest.com/upload/228135537345462446_d4xKxG9m_c.jpg" width="415" /></a></div>
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<div style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px;">
Source: <a href="http://lagarderobe.e-monsite.com/album/le-costume-feminin-1683-1715/2/" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;">lagarderobe.e-monsite.com</a> via <a href="http://pinterest.com/SceneInThePast/" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Scene in the Past</a> on <a href="http://pinterest.com/" style="color: #76838b; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Pinterest</a></div>
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The bodice is not open in front over stays or stomacher; it is likely back-fastening. The sleeves are very short, not longer than the elbow. The neckline is nearly off the shoulders, not up close to the neck. (That point of construction is integral to the mantua.) And the skirt is only draped back slightly, not folded back on itself so the reverse is visible.<br />
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<br />
So what does that make it? Similar contemporary pictures are of royalty, and/or the most formal of all forms of dress.<br />
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Queen Anne, ca. 1700.<br />
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<div style="line-height: 0px; padding-bottom: 2px;">
<a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537345456705/" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="621" src="http://media-cache-lt0.pinterest.com/upload/31243791134442593_NiWpMMb2_c.jpg" width="500" /></a></div>
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<div style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px;">
Source: <a href="http://oldrags.tumblr.com/post/5043560852/queen-anne-by-anonymous-ca-1700" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;">oldrags.tumblr.com</a> via <a href="http://pinterest.com/SceneInThePast/" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Scene in the Past</a> on <a href="http://pinterest.com/" style="color: #76838b; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Pinterest</a></div>
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Marie Anne de Vaviere, Dauphine, "end grand costume":<br />
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<div style="line-height: 0px; padding-bottom: 2px;">
<a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537345456716/" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="797" src="http://media-cache-ec2.pinterest.com/upload/31243791134435138_YtMXLOXj_c.jpg" width="512" /></a></div>
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<div style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px;">
Source: <a href="http://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b6935344f.r=costume+-th%C3%A9%C3%A2tre+-danse+-d%27op%C3%A9ra+-sc%C3%A8ne.langEN" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;">gallica.bnf.fr</a> via <a href="http://pinterest.com/SceneInThePast/" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Scene in the Past</a> on <a href="http://pinterest.com/" style="color: #76838b; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Pinterest</a></div>
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"en grand costume"<br />
<div style="line-height: 0px; padding-bottom: 2px;">
<a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537345456719/" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="798" src="http://media-cache-ec5.pinterest.com/upload/31243791134435118_sj2s6x2y_c.jpg" width="462" /></a></div>
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<div style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px;">
Source: <a href="http://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b6935347p.r=costume+-th%C3%A9%C3%A2tre+-danse+-d%27op%C3%A9ra.langEN" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;">gallica.bnf.fr</a> via <a href="http://pinterest.com/SceneInThePast/" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Scene in the Past</a> on <a href="http://pinterest.com/" style="color: #76838b; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Pinterest</a></div>
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Get it? The Duchess is in court dress! The robe/train she wears, the flash of ermine on her right shoulder, and the coronet by her left elbow all support that view.<br />
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<i>Corsets and Crinolines</i> claims that c.
1690s-1720s court dress retains the earlier fully boned bodice, without
stays, that was ordinary in the mid-1600s. That means that the "Majestic Mantua" has far more in common with the opulent gowns of the Charles II court than with the mantua and the sacque. Thankfully, the ladies of the <a href="http://charlesii.livejournal.com/">Charles II group</a> on LiveJournal have already done a great deal of the research on this type of garment!<br />
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More to come! First, materials, and then how I'm planning to construct this.<br />
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<br />Scene in the Pasthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00152966266473265321noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1692455426705092161.post-68278625773909184022012-12-06T06:00:00.000-06:002013-03-11T10:49:59.104-05:00Maid Marian 1: The PlanThe 2012 Costume College theme was the Golden Age of Hollywood. Before I knew it, it was May, and I had no idea of what I wanted to do for the Gala.<br />
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From what I can tell, most costumers love designing costumes. They're constantly besieged by inspiration and CADD, just overflowing with ideas! Finishing them, whether it's tedious construction or losing interest, is the harder part.<br />
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That is so not me.<br />
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I happen to enjoy construction. Sure, I get discouraged, especially with fiddly stuff or something that just doesn't work; but in general, I love putting things together. As my mother puts it: Sewing starts with one big piece of fabric. You cut it all up into little pieces, and the goal is to get it back together into one piece. I like that process. I hate testing muslins, but I'm good at layout and cutting. <br />
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Inspiration is the hard part. I can't <i>make</i> it happen! The best way to prime the pump is to look at as many pictures as possible. I'm very visual, so the more pictures, the more likely I'll see something I can go with. <a href="http://pinterest.com/sceneinthepast">Pinterest</a> has been invaluable for this alone.<br />
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Pictures only work when I have some kind of idea, though. In mid-May I finally realized that this theme was the best opportunity to make an Old Hollywood "historical" costume. Like <i>Gone with the Wind.</i> Very 1860s inspired, but also definitely a product of the late 1930s.<br />
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<div style="line-height: 0px; padding-bottom: 2px;">
<a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537343772633/" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="416" src="http://media-cache-ec3.pinterest.com/upload/228135537343772633_cUCukhpm_c.jpg" width="596" /></a></div>
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<div style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px;">
Source: <a href="http://historicalsewing.com/childhood-films-inspired-sew" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;">historicalsewing.com</a> via <a href="http://pinterest.com/SceneInThePast/" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Scene in the Past</a> on <a href="http://pinterest.com/" style="color: #76838b; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Pinterest</a></div>
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<br />
I wanted the finished costume to be:<br />
<br />
1. Pretty!<br />
2. Have a big impact! (This is the Gala, after all - As Big As Possible is an unofficial theme.)<br />
3. Recognizably inspired by Old Hollywood, whether a direct copy of a famous gown, or a semi-historical design clearly worn over vintage foundations with vintage hair.<br />
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<br />
I set up a <a href="http://pinterest.com/SceneInThePast/old-hollywood-historical/">Pinterest board</a>, searched my memories for favorite old historical films, and finally went to some LiveJournal friends for advice. I thought about <i>The Inspector General</i> or <i>The Pirate </i>for crazy 1830s styles, which I've always been tempted toward. There's also <i>The Court Jester</i> with its brightly-colored princess-seamed 1950s interpretation of "medieval" dress.<br />
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<div style="line-height: 0px; padding-bottom: 2px;">
<a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537344245696/" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="333" src="http://media-cache-ec6.pinterest.com/upload/228135537344245696_lkcLZmGc_c.jpg" width="600" /></a></div>
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<div style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px;">
Source: <a href="http://www.moviereleses.com/images/cache/screen_image_173979.jpg" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;">moviereleses.com</a> via <a href="http://pinterest.com/SceneInThePast/" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Scene in the Past</a> on <a href="http://pinterest.com/" style="color: #76838b; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Pinterest</a></div>
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And while I was actually typing, I got the best idea. Maid Marian, played by Olivia de Haviland, from the 1938 <i>Robin Hood</i> with Errol Flynn.<br />
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<div style="line-height: 0px; padding-bottom: 2px;">
<a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537344277888/" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="450" src="http://media-cache-ec4.pinterest.com/upload/228135537344277888_kyovW9ch_c.jpg" width="600" /></a></div>
<div style="float: left; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px;">
<div style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px;">
Source: <a href="http://drush76.files.wordpress.com/2009/12/002rz07z.jpg" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;">drush76.files.wordpress.com</a> via <a href="http://pinterest.com/SceneInThePast/" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Scene in the Past</a> on <a href="http://pinterest.com/" style="color: #76838b; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Pinterest</a></div>
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<div style="line-height: 0px; padding-bottom: 2px;">
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<a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537344258413/" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="731" src="http://media-cache-ec4.pinterest.com/upload/228135537344258413_c5JxBbLx_c.jpg" width="600" /></a></div>
<div style="float: left; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px;">
<div style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px;">
Source: <a href="http://vintageclothinglove.blogspot.com/2012/02/1930s-fashion-on-film-adventures-of.html" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;">vintageclothinglove.blogspot.com</a> via <a href="http://pinterest.com/SceneInThePast/" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Scene in the Past</a> on <a href="http://pinterest.com/" style="color: #76838b; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Pinterest</a></div>
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<div style="line-height: 0px; padding-bottom: 2px;">
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<a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537344258465/" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="450" src="http://media-cache-ec2.pinterest.com/upload/228135537344258465_ciLe3wQl_c.jpg" width="600" /></a></div>
<div style="float: left; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px;">
<div style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px;">
Source: <a href="http://www.edelweisspatterns.com/blog/?p=1961" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;">edelweisspatterns.com</a> via <a href="http://pinterest.com/SceneInThePast/" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Scene in the Past</a> on <a href="http://pinterest.com/" style="color: #76838b; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Pinterest</a></div>
</div>
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There are many other beautiful gowns in this film. Olivia has quite the wardrobe! The first one, called the "Forest Gown" in some places, is possibly the most recognizable and/or iconic. It's the audience's first view of Maid Marian, as well as what she's wearing when she meets Robin in Sherwood for the first time.<br />
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There are also plenty of reference pictures for it! That's pretty important when copying a costume. ;)<br />
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This closeup was one of the best references for color, fabric, and design.<br />
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<div style="line-height: 0px; padding-bottom: 2px;">
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<a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537344258463/" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="450" src="http://media-cache-ec2.pinterest.com/upload/228135537344258463_25dTP9pV_c.jpg" width="600" /></a></div>
<div style="float: left; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px;">
<div style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px;">
Source: <a href="http://www.edelweisspatterns.com/blog/?p=1961" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;">edelweisspatterns.com</a> via <a href="http://pinterest.com/SceneInThePast/" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Scene in the Past</a> on <a href="http://pinterest.com/" style="color: #76838b; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Pinterest</a></div>
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<br />
This is unfortunately black and white, but it's the only clear full-length view I could find. I printed it out and referred to it constantly.<br />
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<div style="line-height: 0px; padding-bottom: 2px;">
<a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537344258430/" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="748" src="http://media-cache-ec3.pinterest.com/upload/228135537344258430_jMUXGX3a_c.jpg" width="600" /></a></div>
<div style="float: left; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px;">
<div style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px;">
Source: <a href="http://oliviadehavilland.net/photos/olivia-de-havilland-robin-hood-costume" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;">oliviadehavilland.net</a> via <a href="http://pinterest.com/SceneInThePast/" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Scene in the Past</a> on <a href="http://pinterest.com/" style="color: #76838b; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Pinterest</a></div>
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Another close shot, especially good for jewelry detail.<br />
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<div style="line-height: 0px; padding-bottom: 2px;">
<a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537344263893/" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://media-cache-ec2.pinterest.com/upload/228135537344263893_icoCBui6_c.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="float: left; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px;">
<div style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px;">
Source: <a href="http://kaprayshapray.blogspot.com/2012_02_01_archive.html" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;">kaprayshapray.blogspot.com</a> via <a href="http://pinterest.com/SceneInThePast/" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Scene in the Past</a> on <a href="http://pinterest.com/" style="color: #76838b; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Pinterest</a></div>
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Next time: Shopping!Scene in the Pasthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00152966266473265321noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1692455426705092161.post-77917455584131026882012-12-05T16:03:00.004-06:002013-03-11T10:50:16.300-05:00The Majestic MantuaI'm about to start doing regular posts on the Maid Marian costume, which I made for the 2012 Costume College Gala. However, I've gotten a head start on <i>next</i> year's Gala costume! This will not be a secret project. It's hard to keep records of secret projects. And I love sharing progress and getting feedback along the way.<br />
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Onto the Majestic Mantua!<br />
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It started early last week. I was clicking through the entries on my Google Reader, being rather behind. Reading <a href="http://nttreasurehunt.wordpress.com/2012/11/27/petworths-oriental-vibe/">this post</a> on the National Trust Treasure Hunt blog, my eye was caught!<br />
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<div style="line-height: 0px; padding-bottom: 2px; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/228135537345455976/" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="800" src="http://media-cache-ec3.pinterest.com/upload/228135537345455976_hK3xAqeA_c.jpg" width="507" /></a></div>
<div style="float: left; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; text-align: center;">
<div style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px;">
Source: <a href="http://nttreasurehunt.wordpress.com/2012/11/27/petworths-oriental-vibe/" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;">nttreasurehunt.wordpress.com</a> via <a href="http://pinterest.com/SceneInThePast/" style="color: #76838b; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Scene in the Past</a> on <a href="http://pinterest.com/" style="color: #76838b; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Pinterest</a></div>
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I'm not sure why this caught my eye. It is a striking portrait, and I suppose it appeals to my love of bright but rich color, mix of textures, and overall impact. The biggest reason is the nearly 6 yards of taffeta I got in the garment district this year, with no project in mind.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7114/7777632678_8622c650a1_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7114/7777632678_8622c650a1_z.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />
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It's absolutely perfect. Bright tomato/cherry red shot with white, and a bit of gold or tan.<br />
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<a href="http://augustintytar.blogspot.com/">Before the Automobile</a> said this would be "majestic," so I promptly christened this project "The
Majestic Mantua." Although it's not actually a mantua at all... more on
that later! Research on this project has been absolutely fascinating. <br />
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<br />
But what makes this a Gala gown?<br />
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The Maid Marian this year was such a hit, for me and for others. It was Golden Age Hollywood, it was from an iconic film with gorgeous costumes, it was <i>really really</i> close to the inspiration (I can admit it now!), and it made an impact. I'm an introvert, but honestly, I really appreciate that, at least at the Gala.<br />
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For me to really be happy with it, the 2013 Gala gown should really do two things:<br />
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1. Make an impact. I'm too tall to easily blend in, and the Gala is justification for carrying off ambitious or unusual things.<br />
2. Have at least some connection to the year's theme. Maid Marian was Old Hollywood, with a bonus tribute to the previous year's Medieval theme.<br />
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Does the Majestic Mantua qualify? (I think the answer is obvious, or I wouldn't be posting this!)<br />
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1. For me, and judging by some friends' opinions, I think this will have an impact! It's definitely an unusual period. It's also an unusual gown for the period. (I'll get into that later.) The vertical emphasis is also one I can carry off well.<br />
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2. For 2013, the theme is Pirates and Cavaliers. Cavaliers are mid-1600s, so this gown is a little late. However, the 1690s were still rife with piracy. And here's a crazy coincidence! One of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rafael_Sabatini">Rafael Sabatini</a>'s adventure novels, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Captain_Blood_%28novel%29">Captain Blood</a>, is a pirate book set in the 1680s. Furthermore, in 1935 it was made into <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Captain_Blood_%281935_film%29">a movie</a> starring - you'll never guess - Errol Flynn and Olivia de Haviland!<br />
So the Majestic Mantua is close to the Cavaliers and has several Pirate connections, with bonus reference to the previous year's Golden Age of Hollywood. It's perfect!<br />
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<br />Scene in the Pasthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00152966266473265321noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1692455426705092161.post-75936959111450074112012-10-31T11:06:00.004-05:002013-03-11T10:50:37.162-05:00Halloween, and the Dallas Vintage Clothing and Jewelry ShowTonight is Halloween. (If you didn't know, now you do! You can thank me anytime.) Last year I was at my parents' house. We didn't expect many visitors, since it's a slightly older neighborhood now. My 20-year-old brother still dressed up to answer the door - as WWII period Captain America. Full G.I. gear, plus the blue-painted helmet with a white A. It was a hit, and he was kept surprisingly busy.<br />
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Since I'm in a neighborhood with an even higher child population, I'm expecting to be just as busy tonight. What will make the biggest impact to small children? Hmm...<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/555610_2360478627172_1795958232_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/555610_2360478627172_1795958232_n.jpg" width="319" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Maid Marion! (photo courtesy Lauren/<a href="http://wearinghistoryblog.com/">Wearing History</a>)<a href="http://vforvintageblog.blogspot.com/"><br /></a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
It'll be an interesting evening.<br />
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On Saturday, I went to the <a href="http://www.vintageclothingandjewelry.com/">Dallas Vintage Clothing and Jewelry Show</a> on Saturday, meeting up with <a href="http://festiveattyre.com/">Jen</a>. Because it was free admission for those in "head-to-toe vintage," I pulled out all the stops and made sure I did it right.<br />
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Since taking Lauren's class on the Vintage Wardrobe at Costume College, I've made some good purchases to fill some holes. One of them was this early 1940s rust-colored suit. It has a single-button closure, wide peaked lapels, and is pleated to fit the waist. Its skirt is short, with a single inverted box pleat in both front and back.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8470/8132828062_f7e4b6cf2d_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8470/8132828062_f7e4b6cf2d_b.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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Navy is the "base color" I've settled on for my primary vintage
wardrobe. Brown/rust is not the best color for me, but it goes well with
navy. <i>Early</i> 1940s suits are hard to find, so when this one
showed up in the perfect size, useable color, and excellent price, I
snatched it.<br />
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My only non-vintage item (besides the Rago girdle!) is the blouse. I made it from a <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/5059550157/in/set-72157624989743967">vintage pattern</a> out of lightweight linen for a vintage Lady Adventurer outfit several years ago. My only jewelry is the green pin. It's only cheap plastic, with a fake pearl in it, but I think it's awesome.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I'm surprised I haven't taken a picture of this before.</td></tr>
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With it, I wore a navy hat I bought at the first Antique Elegance show I attended (2009?), heavier rayon/cotton seamed stockings, and vintage 1940s navy blue slingbacks. I carried a Whiting & Davis cream/white aluminum mesh handbag, one of my earliest vintage purchases.<br />
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I went to the show determining to be very good, and I was! I came home with two things, both of which I really needed and wanted:<br />
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A navy blue drawstring purse, trimmed with silver and pearl beads. It has a hard, weighted bottom so it sits upright. Myrna Loy has one very like it in <i>The Thin Man Goes Home,</i> 1945.<br />
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The top trim is a piece that folds down, like a fringe. One silver aiglet is missing, but that and the wear on the strings are the only flaws. A navy handbag was a really big hole in my vintage wardrobe, so finding this for $10 made me happy.<br />
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The second item was this navy straw tilt hat, trimmed with red and gray ribbon. It's adorable! Aside from some slight fading to the edge of the brim, it's in great shape. The navy hat I wore that day was really my only navy one, and it isn't very practical for summer or strong wind around here. So this hat is perfect. I never dreamed of finding anything like it.<br />
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There's even a back ribbon band, so you can be sure this is meant to be tilted. I love red, and I have fabric for integrating more red into my vintage wardrobe. Just one more reason why this hat is so good. Oh, and although it was tagged $45 - above my budget for the show - the lady said she could do $25 plus tax. And when all I had in cash was $24, she took it! Yay!<br />
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So it was a good show. I'm glad I went, and I'm looking forward to next year in March.<br />
<br />Scene in the Pasthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00152966266473265321noreply@blogger.com4