Picnic with the Pixies

Whew! I am totally exhausted, but it was such a fun time. And imperfections and all, I am very happy with how my whole "look" came out. It's hard for a perfectionist to say, but I think I'm satisfied.

All of these pictures but one are courtesy of Jennifer Thompson. Thank you, Jen! You can see many more at her Flickr here.

In typical Texas fashion, the weather was totally unpredictable.  March has rapidly warmed up around here. Temperatures in the 80s, strong winds, both humidity and dry weather, lead to severe thunderstorms and grassfire threats. And then the wind shifts around violently and we're cold again.

We hit 88F on March 4, and were back up in the 80s last weekend. (With several cold fronts in between.) Then several weak cold fronts kept us in the 60s with lots of clouds and humidity, and a looming threat of the most rain on Saturday. We played it by ear, kept in touch by Facebook, and went for it.

Saturday morning I woke up to a thunderstorm.  I only got a little rain for all the noise it made, and it seemed likely that the actual storms would be done by mid-morning.  It stayed cloudy and chilly, with a high of only 54F, but all we had were sprinkles!  We had a good turnout, including adults, children, dogs, and dolls! and a lovely spread of munchies. The Grapevine Botanic Gardens had a nice pavilion setup with benches and a podium, and plenty of walks for strolling and pictures. No one sat on the ground, but even then it was only slightly muddy.

When Jen arrived, she and Erin and I wandered around together, taking pictures and playing at posing. It was fun! The guidelines and ideas I had made posing SO much easier, although I still really relied on Jen to tell me where to turn. White space in particular is hard to achieve by yourself.

I took this one!

Jen got lots of good pictures, some with my wings, and more without them.

I admit I took the wings off fairly early. I think I need more confidence wearing them! It was also cold and I really wanted to wear a shawl.

Erin found a wonderful arbor for posing. Are those honeysuckle?

In one area of the gardens was a big tree surrounded by a fence.

There's a plaque in front of the tree, put there in 1987. It commemorates that this tree (which we think is a post oak) was alive in 1787, the year the U.S. Constitution was signed. So neat! Most of North Texas is prairie, or former prairie, so old trees are unusual.

Cold, drizzle, and all, it was a great day!

Safari at the Zoo

On Saturday I went to a DFWCG event, Safari at the Zoo.  I drive past the Fort Worth Zoo all the time, but haven't ever been to my knowledge.  So this was my first excursion! And I made it in style. (All pictures courtesy of Jennifer Thompson. She takes the best pictures!)





Everyone else in our small group went the perceived traditional safari route, with pith helmets and shades of brown or khaki. (Although one lady did a multi-colored corset and peacock bustle!)



I love pith helmets, and actually have two of them, which I've used for costumes in the past. And for working around the yard, too. They work!

Trying to remove a stump, with my cousin's help. After several hours we resorted to the towing power of my neighbor's pickup truck. ;)

I got a major haircut (over 8") a few weeks ago, and for the first time my hair is short enough to do real 1940s curls. I love how they look with the hat.  The day of the safari was the third day after my first all-pincurl set. Although it had fallen out a lot, I still like how it looks.



This blue felt Western hat, probably from the 1940s, is one of my very favorite vintage hats, and I was dying to style it in a vintage-style adventurer outfit with my new hair.  Besides, any wide-brimmed vintage hat looks like Indiana Jones, and I'm an Indy fangirl from waaaaay back. ;)





I did a safari outfit for Halloween a few years ago, using some jodhpurs in won on ebay, one of my pitch helmets, ebay boots, and a me-made 40s blouse.  Saturday was shaping up to be a fairly chilly day, though, and I don't have adventure-y outerwear yet. I checked for some inspiration and found that breeches/jodhpurs were often worn with shirt and tie and pullover sweater, tucked in.

Source: photodetective.co.uk via Ginger - Scene in the Past on Pinterest

Source: thesartorialist.com via Ginger - Scene in the Past on Pinterest

Even Amelia Earhart, whose relaxed style didn't usually include a knotted tie, tucked in her pullover.

Source: collegefashion.net via Ginger - Scene in the Past on Pinterest

The final outfit:

Green jodhpurs: ebay, vintage (1940s?), cavalry twill (possibly cotton), possibly homemade
White long sleeve shirt: Kohl's, I think Apt. 9, a few years ago
Brown pullover: Old Navy, lambswool, a few years ago
Navy tie: a hand-me-down from my youngest brother
Brown belt: appropriated from my father
Brown boots: ebay, Nine West, probably 1990s




The difference between jodhpurs and breeches is that jodhpurs are ankle length, worn over short boots, and held down with a stirrup strap.  Breeches fit to below the knee, and tall boots are worn over them.  Mine are jodhpurs, but I am significantly taller than most 1940s women and they are ridiculously short. So I wear them as breeches!  I plan to take a pattern from them and make some that fit better, though.  They're perfect in the waist and hips, but need 6-8" more length in thighs and calves.  The knees on these have to pull up too far, so the fullness is out of proportion and my knees are very tight.  Anyone have a source for cavalry twill??



My brother gave me the tie, and a couple others, when he was cleaning out his clothes a few years ago. They're little boy ties, one step up from the clip-on kind, but too small for a large teenager. They're perfect on me for tucking into a pullover or waistcoat. It was surprisingly easy to learn how to tie a four-in-hand knot. I really liked how the outfit came out, and I think that the tie in particular is one element that makes it look more real.



I don't remember how long ago I got the belt from my father. It's reversible, black on the other side with a lot of paint splatters. I really like it because it's very flexible and long enough to loop the end.  My jodhpurs don't actually have belt loops, but the waist is high enough that the belt looked good and didn't go anywhere.



The only thing I would have added was gloves. The sun was bright and we weren't uncomfortable, but my hands were cold! Ah, well, I can't think of everything.  It was a lovely day at the zoo. The company was great, both the ladies and Jen's little boy. I grew up with three younger brothers, so it's fun to play with him. A great idea for an outing!

A New Project

I've finished the UFO for the next Historical Sew Fortnightly challenge. The post for that will be coming soon; I got thrown off my posting schedule early this week. ;) In the meantime, here's the unveiling of a project I've been plotting for months!

Last fall, the DFWCG was planning to do a Regency fairy-themed tea party. The tea party plans fell through, so the event was re-cast as the Picnic with the Pixies, not specifically Regency. But I was already in love with my idea. Last week I received the one critical piece that will make it work, so finally, the unveiling of...  

The Paisley Pixie!

I've had lots of inspiration for this idea. I wanted to have a real dress that could easily be de-pixified, so the fairy elements had to be separate from the gown itself.

Pixified

The biggest influence is Katherine's Regency fairy, with her paper wings made from Jane Austen text. I loved this atypical interpretation of the fairy idea, and I wanted to do something similarly unusual. The "paisley" idea was purely a product of brainstorming back in October. I wanted an idea, or a motif, that is immediately associated with the Regency period, just as Jane Austen is. I thought about authors, the wars, and then textiles - and thought of the "paisley" shawls that dominated European fashion. The Dreamstress wrote about the shawls, and the gowns made from them, in a serendipitous post several weeks ago. ;) So my first thought was go make use of the shawl-like motif.

I've always loved fairy wings; I used to make them out of paper when I was a little girl. :) So wings were a necessity, even apart from Katherine's example. I bought some decent wire-framed wings from Joann's during Halloween, and planned to cover them with scraps of old shawls. But surprise, no scraps were to be found! Even on ebay there were only bits for sale, and they weren't cheap. And my conscience started to poke me at the thought of cutting them up further. In desperation I expanded my searches, and started turning up saris. Saris often have the "paisley" motifs (botehs) spread out or lined up, instead of big and intertwined. And it struck me how like feathers the botehs looked... 

This vintage silk sari (for all of $21) arrived last week: 

 

The botehs in the border are 5-6" long apiece. I'm going to cut them out individually, and place them on the wire frame wings like feathers. I'll use some of the small paisley ground to cover the wire wings, and fill in any blank spots. The silk is very light, like "China" silk. 


 

I'm going to get a big loom bobbin to use for a wand (with paisley streamers??), and remake my failed red velvet bonnet into a tam, with a border from the sari. And either real or paisley feathers, depending on what I have left. So this is definitely a Scottish Paisley fairy, not a Kashmiri fairy. ;)

Depending on what I have left of the sari, the plan is to ornament the rest of the dress. I don't think I'll be able to use the big design on the sari; the skirt will be too full for a border, even if I cut it up and turn the motifs lengthwise. :( Any ideas? 


 


The Gown 

The gown itself had to coordinate with the sari, but the sari was one of the last things I sourced. Without it, the whole outfit falls apart, so that's why I've kept this under wraps until now.

I was undecided on the fabric for quite some time, thinking of the short lengths of mauve and blue wool I have in my stash, and considering ekeing out a sleeveless dress. I've always like the ones in Mrs. Hurst Dancing. Then I found the beautiful crimson wool that I used for Jordi's FMA robe. I deliberately way overbought, so that I could make whatever I wanted with the remnants. Not only is the crimson perfect for coordinating with traditional paisley designs, it is a favorite color of mine and reminds me of Megan's warm and colorful Regency winter gown.

All of my Regency gowns are early Regency, with long drapey and/or trained skirts. To be different I'm aiming for the early/mid 1810s, with shorter, slightly flared skirts and more structured sleeves. I also wanted to do a front-fastening dress. Studying the sleeveless dresses, as well as shawl gowns and wool gowns, I came up with my own idea.

The basic inspiration is this 1815 fashion plate of a red shawl gown. 

Source: flickr.com via Scene in the Past on Pinterest

The skirt length is perfect, just short enough, but not requiring the visible underskirt. More importantly, I love the look of the short sleeves with long white sleeves. I could have two pair of long sleeves, one muslin, and one self fabric, for three looks. With a moderately-low bodice, this dress can do either day or evening duty in nearly all seasons.

Source: flickr.com via Scene in the Past on Pinterest

I had some difficulty finding a pattern to adapt. I finally settled on the Patterns of Fashion bib-front gown as a base for the bodice and sleeves. Although it's dated to very early Regency, it's really only the trained skirt (and maybe the very high back waist) that make it so. I've adapted the sleeves, particularly to shorten the top sleeve so it's puffier and no longer than the waistline.

The bib front itself is going to be pleated and drawn in. This silk gown isn't a drop-front dress, but it's almost perfect for copying. I hope the wool doesn't have too much body to do this.

Source: uvm.edu via Scene in the Past on Pinterest

I'm using one of the Hunnisett skirts, one with a lot of flared edges. I'm concerned that a front skirt that falls straight from my ribs will pull across my wide hips, so I'm also cutting down the center front skirt at the waist a little. The apron front should allow plenty of room, but there's no point in taking chances.

For trim, I'm planning on self fringe. Jen's redingote fringe turned out so awesome! I've been seeing fringe in a lot of fashion plates now. I like this one, with a double row at the hem and at the cuffs of the short sleeves.
 

Source: flickr.com via Scene in the Past on Pinterest

I love the long sleeves with buttoned wrist strap, so I'll probably do that, and try adding fringe to the strap. And maybe to the long cuff over the hand, too. This will definitely be my entry for the HSF challenge on Trimming. ;)

I'm leaning toward these blousey ones with the doubled frill for my muslin sleeves. I'd probably do the frill in organza or organdy for lots of poof.

Source: flickr.com via Scene in the Past on Pinterest

I may have some kind of chemisette or tucker as well. I have a chemisette I can use if I run out of time, or if something else becomes priority.

As for accessories: Green or black shoes, and red stockings! And a reticule. I am so bad about remembering a bag to carry with my costumes.

When I haven't been working on my UFO this week, I've been tracing and testing patterns. Last night I made the last bodice and sleeve muslin. I just need to test the pleated apron front now. I'm looking forward to putting this dress together.

Costume College - Sunday

I was pretty worn out on Sunday. No wonder, with the late night! Once again I did not make it to the Sunday Undies breakfast, although I did not sleep in very late.  I took it easy, did lots of final shopping, and went to a class on 1860s jewelry that was really good.

I knew I would be tired and not feeling like making a lot of effort, so I wore my block printed Regency gown. I didn't get any pictures in it, so here are some old ones from last year's DFWCG Georgian picnic.

Photo courtesy Jennifer Thompson

Photo courtesy Jennifer Thompson

This time I accessorized with my new red stone brooch, a green ribbon sash, and a turban made from a dark red shawl.  American Duchess's tutorial was really helpful!  I wore it with lots of curls, similarly to the black and white Regency from the Friday social. I also pinned on the clear rhinestone brooch to the turban. It looked good! Too bad I don't have any photo proof.


On Sunday afternoon, I changed into very casual vintage wear, to be comfy by the pool. I ended up visiting with Teresa for a long time, which was great.

When we made it to the pool, several other people were at the inside pool.  Lauren was wearing an amazing c. 1940 Vogue outfit, so I took a few pictures for her on a great stairway by the pool.

Photo courtesy of Aubry

Photo courtesy of Aubry

I accidentally left my swimsuit at Lauren's house, so I wasn't able to actually join in the swimming. But I did wade in as far as I could and threw the ball around!

Photo courtesy of Aubry

It was such a comfortable, relaxing time, a great end to Costume College proper.

The next day we went back to the garment district. I already covered that in my shopping post, so that's it for Costume College 2012!

Costuming the Civil War: Links

Welcome! Some of you may have been in my class on "Costuming the Civil War: Getting the 1860s Look" on Saturday the 28th, at the Dallas-Fort Worth Costumers Guild retreat. As promised, here is a list of my favorite 1860s-related links.  Some are informational and some are for shopping.  I'm sure I will add more in the future, too. Watch this space for updates. ;)


Information

Elizabeth Stewart Clark: The Compendium
Excellent articles and free patterns, in PDF format. I recommend:

• Assembling Your "Best Bet" Wardrobe
• Defining the Work Dress
• Make a Basic Petticoat
• Make a Simple Chemise
• Make a Simple Slat Sunbonnet
• How to Make Women's Split Drawers

The Graceful Lady: Originals
Anna Allen has collected images, mostly from ebay, of original garments, CDVs (photographic prints), and fashion plates, specifically for the early 1860s.

Bonny Blue: Historical Help
Geared toward beginning reenactors, this is an excellent introduction and how-to's for reproducing the 1860s.

Curiosity Shop: Glenna Jo & Bill Christen's Presentations and Works-in-Progress
Excellent presentations and articles from a very knowledgeable couple.

The Sewing Academy
A forum started by Elizabeth Stewart Clark, this is one of my favorite online places to hang out. The depth of knowledge here is matched only by the members' friendliness and willingness to help. I particularly enjoy contributions by Glenna Jo Christen and Carolann Schmitt, who began reenacting in the 1960s. If you have a question, go here and search the archives for an answer with evidence to back it up.


Shopping

Timely Tresses
 Bonnet patterns, kits, and buckram and braided hemp frames, from 1795-1865.  Their research into the early 1860s is particularly meticulous. The variety they offer isn't simply different styles, but shows how bonnet shape changed subtly but significantly from the late 1850s into 1865.

Mrs. Parker's Millinery and Mercantile
 Pam Robles (another member of the Sewing Academy) does gorgeous and incredibly accurate bonnets and hats, specializing the 1860s but spanning Regency and the full Victorian period. She also offers buckram bonnet forms as well as beautiful fancy woven straw bonnet forms. And she is the only source I know for accurate and varied straw hats.

Robert Land Historic Shoes
The only source for accurate side-lacing low-heeled 1860s boots. He also offers Regency varieties and newer-styled 1860s boots.

Bonny Blue Historical Clothing
Owned by Atlanta Shannon, who I know personally. She does beautiful work and takes custom orders.

Originals by Kay
Famed for their custom corsets. Also offer a variety of ready made items and cage crinoline kits, and also do custom orders.

Past Patterns
Patterns taken from originals but graded into multi-sized garments. This line has a good reputation and I have had success with those I have used. They include extensive historical notes.

Laughing Moon Mercantile
Offer a beautiful day dress pattern. I have not personally used it yet, but Anna Allen of the Graceful Lady was  very impressed.  [ETA 3/11/13: I've now fitted it to me, and I love the look it gives; I can't wait to make my first dress with it.] Their basic Victorian corset is slightly long in the hip, but otherwise perfect for the 1860s, and has very high reviews.

Fig Leaf Patterns / Dancing Leaf Designs
Patterns developed with Kay Gnagey of Originals by Kay, such as a wrapper pattern and a paletot (coat).

Truly Victorian
Also have a very good reputation. Specialize in post-Civil War patterns, but offer quite a variety of 1860s skirts and bodices. Remember that 1860s skirts are mostly squares, and be careful that the bodice option you choose is appropriate for your use, time period, and fabric. The 1858 round cage crinoline is too big for most uses. IMHO it also looks too round, but I have not seen the pattern myself.



More to come!

Also, feel free to leave any questions in the comments, or email me. Thank you for visiting!

Explanation and Welcome

It has been two months without an update since starting this blog. That's pretty unacceptable! My sincere apologies. Immediately after blog setup, my work situation underwent a temporary but drastic change.  As a result I've had to focus all my time and energy into a handful of necessities.  Unfortunately, "Scene in the Past" was one of many lesser priorities.  Hence the disappearance.

However, the work situation is back to normal. Hurrah! I intend to establish a regular posting schedule, both with new content, and with past/historical information as well.

Also, welcome! to those of you who were linked here from the DFWCG's Costumer's Lost Weekend page.  I'm excited and nervous to be teaching two classes on July 28th.  I will have posts with further information afterward, too.

In the meantime, here is a hint about one of my activities last week. More to come when I get better pictures!